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KARCHNER CAVERNS STATE PARK - COCHISE COUNTY, ARIZONA   Doc.
  Kartchner Caverns State Park™
Cochise County - Arizona
 
On my visit in December 2009 to Tucson, Arizona I took the opportunity to visit Kartchner Caverns State Park. It is now on my “MUST VISIT” list when you are in the Tucson area.
 
I was amazed and in awe of the beauty in the caverns, and even more amazed to find that the State of Arizona and its park system has held to its promise to protect and preserve this treasure – while making it totally accessible to the public. By accessible I mean even wheel chair and scooter accessible for the handicapped. – see the photos.
 
This is a live and growing cavern, and the State Park authority has taken every precaution to maintain it that way as you will read below. I could go on about this, but again the Kartchner Caverns State Park Public Information Office has made the following material available doing a much better information digest than I could.
 
I would like to thank the Arizona State Parks, Kartchner Caverns State Parks and their Public Information Office personnel for providing this wealth of information concerning the caverns and its background.
 
All pictures are copyrighted ©Arizona State Parks and the photo credit is Noelle Wilson and/or are copyrighted ©Arizona State Parks and the photo credit is K.L. Day.
 
Peter A Distefano, Editor In Chief
 
KARTCHNER CAVERNS FACT SHEET
For cave tour reservations call (520) 586-2283
 
KARTCHNER CAVERNS STATE PARK
 
Kartchner Caverns State Park, located in Southeastern Arizona, encompasses 550-acres at the base of the Whetstone Mountains. The seven acres of pristine caverns that have become the focus for this new world-class State Park are hidden beneath one of the small hills that dot the majestic Chihuahuan Desert. The cave has been identified as one of the top ten caves in the world because of the variety of the mineral formations in both the upper and lower caverns.
 
Randy Tufts and Gary Tenen, two cave enthusiasts, first discovered a small opening that led to the main cave in 1974. Worrying about potential vandalism, they spent the next two years exploring the cave in secret. Tufts and Tenen named their extraordinary find “Xanadu.” It wasn’t until February 1978 when Tufts and Tenen told the property owners, James and Lois Kartchner, about “Xanadu” and later led them and their five sons down to see it for themselves.
 
In 1988, fourteen years after Tufts and Tenen’s discovery, Arizona State Parks purchased the site where the cave still lay hidden beneath a hill, and named it Kartchner Caverns State Park. Since then, Arizona State Parks has conducted many studies of the cave, focusing on protecting its environmental integrity. Inside, the two main galleries are a kaleidoscope of color with 100-foot high ceilings dripping with multihued stalactites and floors jutting up with matching stalagmites. Giant white columns form where the two meet. Dainty white helictites, translucent orange bacon, and shields of white calcite adorn this natural wonder. An extraordinarily thin stalactite, called a soda straw, hangs tenuously 21 feet 2 inches down from the cave’s ceiling. Rare quartz needles forming “birdsnests,” nitrocalcite “cotton,” and an extensive array of brushite moonmilk are microscopic and are only found in a few caves in the world.
 
Environmental stations constantly monitor the high humidity and moderate temperatures inside the cave that must be protected as it contrasts dramatically with the dry, hot desert above. From May to mid September the cave serves as a maternity ward for about 1,000 female Myotis velifer bats that roost there.
 
Kartchner Caverns State Park is a master planned facility with a variety of uses. The Park has five miles of trails for hiking and an above-ground handicapped accessible loop trail, and a "Discovery Center." There is both visitor and staff parking, staff dormitories and housing, maintenance facilities, rest rooms and shower buildings for the staff, and a Visitors contact station. There is also a bookstore and gift shop, shaded dining area, picnic area, food vending area and play area as well.
 
A 23,000-square-foot Discovery Center houses the environmentally-oriented exhibits. The exhibits cover information about other show caves in Arizona, the geology of the cave and the surrounding natural landscapes that make up this State Park. The exhibits include a documentary 16-minute video explaining why “stewardship” of natural resources is so important in regard to this pristine cave. Interactive exhibits show the cave exploration, types of cave features, the cave tour experience, features of a wet cave, the cave mammals, biology of the cave, the formations and special features. There is also a 167- seat outdoor amphitheater for specialty interpretive programs.
 
Entrance to the park is $10 per vehicle of four. This will include to the 550-acre Park, Discovery Center, exhibit complex, picnic area, hiking and hummingbird garden. Cave tours into the Rotunda, Throne and Imaginary rooms will be an additional $14 for adults, $6 for children 7-13 and kids less than 6 years old are free (although rangers find that most small children don’t like the dark, damp environment.) The Park is open to the public from 7:30 AM until 6:00 PM each day seven days a week except Christmas day. Kartchner Caverns State Park has daily walk-up tickets that are more available in summer than winter. Visitors have to be waiting in line at 7:30 am if they want to try and get those tickets. To be sure you have reservations for your cave tour call (520)586-CAVE.
 
Kartchner Caverns State Park is located southeast of Tucson in Cochise County. This is one of the most historically-significant areas in Arizona with "Tombstone, The Town Too Tough to Die," the historic copper mining town of Bisbee, the world-renown Chiracahua Mountains, and Sierra Vista's Fort Huachuca. This Arizona State Park is also adjacent to the Coronado National Forest which has many miles of hiking trails and public camping areas.
 
For more information about activities and accommodations in Cochise County see the homepage at http://www.arizonaguide.com/cochise.
 
For more information about the 27 rural Arizona’s State Parks call (602)542-4174 or see the Arizona State Parks homepage AZStateParks.com
 

General Info:
 
Park Visitation November 1999 to April 2008 approximately 1,725,000
 
Dollars generated to date: approximately $26 million
 
Cost to develop entire park: bridge, roads, buildings, infrastructure and cave $34.2 M
 
Monies used for this park: Mostly Park user fees, Heritage Fund, ADOT, General Fund
 
Park Location: 8 miles south of Benson, Cochise County
 
Entrance elevation: 4,665 ft. above msl. Caverns mapped Length: 2.40 miles
 
Highest Point: 43 feet above entrance. Lowest Point: 76 feet below entrance.
 
Total vertical extent: 119 feet.
 
Depth below ground surface varies from approximately 10 feet to approximately 260 feet.
 
Mapped by: Randy Tufts, Gary Tenen, Orion and Jan Knox, and Kartchner Family, supplemented by pre-development mapping by Arizona Conservation Projects, Inc.
 
In general, the cave is characterized by large rooms. It is largely active with well-developed calcite speleothems. Some areas of the cave flood intermittently.
 

Public Tour Information: Please make reservations by calling from 8-5 pm *(MST) daily: Reservations (520) 586-CAVE (2283)
Directions: The Park is located nine miles south of I-10, off State Hwy 90, exit 302.
Park Hours: Open seven days a week. 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (MST) Park Gates Close at 6:00 p.m. and open at 7:00 a.m. Closed Christmas Day and state holidays.
 
Rotunda/Throne Room Tour: Length: 1/2 mile Time: 1 1/2 hr. (leaving approximately every 20 minutes), tours available year-round.
 
On this tour you will discover the role water has played in the creation of Kartchner Caverns. You will see some of the tiniest, most delicate formations found in the cave, as well as the largest column in Arizona. This tour includes an up-close look at the variety of formations and colors that makes this cave one of the top ten in the world.
 
Big Room Tour: Length: 1/2 mile Time: 1 1/2 hr. (leaving approximately every 30 minutes), tours available October 15 - April 15. (bats roost in that room in the summer)
 
The Kartchner Caverns story is one of amazing discoveries...both past and present. Stand where the discoverers first entered the cave. Marvel at the strange and colorful formations. Learn about cave inhabitants, both ancient and living. As scientific studies continue, discoveries are yet to be made. The Big Room tour is a longer and more physically challenging tour. Children age 6 and under are not allowed on the tour.
 
Eco-Science Trek: Try the Eco-Science Trek and learn about the conservation techniques used to preserve the cave's fragile ecosystem during construction and continued visitation. It follows the same path as the Rotunda/Throne Room tour.
 
Information for Parents: It is not uncommon for young children, six years and under, to become uncomfortable in the cave environment. In these instances, the child and parent will be allowed to leave the cave tour for their well-being and safety. Please inquire upon check-in if you have any concern.
 
Group tours: Commercial tour companies can send information to pio@azstateparks.gov for more specific information and guidelines for making reservations at Kartchner. We will also mail out a CD and background information for your group and a special use permit if you would like to use the amphitheater or group tour ramadas and large group picnic area.
 
Accessibility: The Visitor Center, parking, restrooms, water fountains, hummingbird trail, and vending area are accessible for people with disabilities. No walkers are allowed in the caverns.
 
The trails in the caverns are barrier-free, meaning there are no steps. People who feel they may have difficulty navigating the trails are advised to bring their own wheelchairs, preferably with assistance as some of the grades may be difficult to maneuver. Maximum width of wheelchairs in caverns is 30" wide from outer wheel to outer wheel. Wheelchairs are available in case of an emergency in the Visitor's Center.
 

History:
 
Discovered in 1974 by Randy Tufts and Gary Tenen.
 
Purchased by State Parks in 1988.
 
Pre-development studies by Arizona Conservation Projects, Inc. ? 1989-1991.
 
Shaft Entrance installed May 1994.
 
Portal Tunnel construction begins August 1995.
 
Portal Tunnel breakthrough to cave: Rotunda, October 1996; Throne, December
1996; and Cul De Sac, February/April 1997.
 
Tarantula Tunnel construction begins July 1995.
 
Tarantula Tunnel Breakthrough to cave: October 1996.
 
Rotunda-Throne Room Complex opened for tours ? November 1999
.
Big Room Complex opened for tours on November 11, 2003.
 

Geology and Hydrology:
 
Kartchner Caverns is developed in the Escabrosa Limestone (Mississippian).
Cave developed in a down-dropped block (Kartchner Block) between the Whetstone Mountain and San Pedro Valley.
 
Numerous faults cut block and cave and influence cave development.
 
Cave developed mainly along single horizontal level at about 4,625 ft.
 
Identified recharge from infiltration of water from Guindani and Saddle Washes and from direct infiltration from area above cave. No surface discharge.
 
One of the ten most mineralogically interesting caves in the world
(Hill and Forti, 1997; Hill, 1999).
 

General Cave Formation Timeline (Hill, 1999):
 
320,000,000 years ago – Deposition of Escabrosa Limestone.
 
15,000,000 - 5,000,000 year ago – Basin and Range faulting.
 
200,000 years ago – Dissolution of cave at water-table.
 
194,000 years ago – Oldest identified speleothem in cave.
 
120,000 - 70,000 years ago – Major period of speleothem growth.
 
80,000 years ago – Sloth enters or washes into cave.
 
50,000 - 40,000 years ago – Cave myotis use of Rotunda and Throne Room.
 
70,000 - 10,000 years ago – Speleothem growth declines.
 
10,000 years ago - Present – Increasing aridity, continued decreasing speleothem growth.
 

Big Room Unique formations:
 
Flowstone consisting of calcium carbonate, gypsum and other mineral matter accumulated on the floors and walls of the cave where water flows over the rock and forms a huge tower.
 
Turnip shields. Look like turnips hanging from the ceiling. The ones in the Big room were first-ever discovery of this type of speleothem.
 
Large fried egg stalagmite.
 
Brushite moonmilk – The world’s most extensive formation of brushite moonmilk is found in the Big Room. Name comes from the Swiss moonmilch “elf’s milk.” It is a common cave minerat, this flowing, moonmilk-form of it is unusual. It is usually found as a calcite. This pasty cave mineral is caused by a reaction between the bat guano and the underlying limestone.
 

Cave Mineralogy:
 
One of the ten most mineralogically interesting caves in the world
(Hill and Forti, 1997; Hill, 1999).
 
Abundant and diverse cave formations (speleothems) of calcite including stalactites, soda straws, stalagmites (including totems and fried eggs), columns, draperies, shields (including parachute, welt, and turnip), flowstone, popcorn, helectites, and boxwork.
 
First identification of birdsnest quartz, rectorite and nontronite (types of clay) from a cave.
 
First modern description of nitrocalcite.
 
Extensive brushite moonmilk flowstone.
 
21 foot 2 inch long soda straw in Throne Room is world’s second longest soda straw (the longest is in a cave in Mexico).
 

Cave Meteorology:
 
Cave Air Temperature: varies throughout the cave between 64?F and 71.7?F (1991-2001) with a mean pre-development temperature for the entire cave of 67.6?F (1989-1991).
 
Cave temperature higher than mean annual surface temperature of 62.4?F (possibly due to geothermal heating).
 
Mean relative humidity throughout cave 99.4% (1989-1991).
 
Average evaporation throughout cave 9.4 mL/m2/day (1989-1991).
 
Natural cave entrance generally inhales October through May, exhales June through September.
 
Radon levels average 90 pCi/L and radon daughters average 0.77 WL in main part of cave. Radon varies seasonally (highest in Summer).
 
CO2 varies seasonally (high in Summer) and has reached about 6000 ppm at times.
 

Rotunda-Throne Area Facts and Figures:
 
Rotunda Room dimensions approximately 230 feet long by 120 feet wide.
 
Throne Room dimensions approximately 170 feet long by 145 feet wide.
 
960 feet of tourist trail.
 
Opened for tours November 1999.
 
25 Tours per day with up to 20 people on each tour (500 visitors per day).
 
Each tour has two guides - A lead and tail guide for safety.
 
In the cave on the Rotunda-Throne Tour, the depth that people are below the surface varies from about 170 feet below the surface (at the Balcony) to about 230 feet below the surface (at the Boatdock). The ceiling thickness varies from about 120 feet (in the Throne Room) to about 210 feet (at the Boatdock).
 

Big Room Area Facts and Figures:
 
Big Room dimensions approximately 400 feet long by 240 feet wide.
 
Cul De Sac dimension approximately 160 feet long by 85 feet wide.
 
Strawberry Room dimensions approximately 100 feet long by 75 feet wide.
 
1220 feet of tourist trail.
 
In the cave on the Big Room Tour, the depth that people are below the surface varies from about 40 feet below the surface (near the Taratula exit) to about 140 feet below the surface (in Cul de Sac). The ceiling thickness varies from about 25 feet (near the Taratula exit) to about 120 feet (in Cul de Sac).
 

Biology:
 
Myotis velifer maternity colony in Big Room, approximately 1000 adults, in Big Room from about mid-April through end of September.
 
38 species of invertebrates have been identified from the cave, including 4 obligate cave dwellers (troglobites), 19 facultative cave dwellers (troglophiles), 1 animal that shelters in the cave but feeds outside (camel cricket) (trogloxene), and 12 animals that occur in the cave only sporadically (accidentals).
 
The obligate cave dwellers include two species of mite, one terrestrial isopod, and one bristletail.
 
Up to eight of the cave dwelling invertebrates (including several mites, an isopod, and a bristletail) may be species new to science.
 
Cave bat (Myotis velifer) guano acts as basal food source for a diverse terrestrial cave community.
 
Cave community dominated by mites, with a variety of other arachnids, springtails, and other insects present.
 
Mexican long-tongued bat (Choeronycteris mexicana) and Townsend’s Big-eared bat (Corynorhinus townsendi) occur in entrance area transiently.
 

Paleontology:
 
A substantially complete Shasta ground sloth (Nothrotheriops shastensis) was recovered from Echo Passage. The bones have been dated to 86,000 ± 5000 years.
 
Dirt and rubble from an ancient entrance in the Tarantula Room contains animal bone and land snail shells. The entrance was open around 36,000 years ago. Three extinct animals: a horse (Equus sp.), a pronghorn (Stockoceros sp.), and Conkling’s roadrunner (Geococcyx californianus conklingi), have been found in the former entrance fill. A variety of animals that are not extinct are also found in the fill; these include frogs, lizards, snakes, birds, and mammals.
Two extinct animals: a javalina (Platygonus sp.) and a rabbit (Aztlanolagus sp.) were found in an area off the Big Room.
 
A 100 year old coyote (Canis latrans) skeleton was found near the middle of the Big Room.
 
Bat guano and skeletal material in Rotunda and Throne Rooms dates from 40,000 to 50,000 years old. The material represents ancient roosts of cave bats (Myotis velifer).
 
Davis (1999) studied pollen and microfossils from speleothems between 194,000 and 76,000 years old. He found modern analogs on Colorado Plateau (about 10?C cooler than modern), but pollen concentrations were too low for strong conclusions.
 

Archaeology: The cave has no known archaeological significance.
 

On-going Monitoring Program:
 
Since 1991, Arizona State Parks has been monitoring cave microclimate, CO2, radon, and extensometers for ceiling blocks in some areas. We also monitor several wells (water level and quality) and surface weather.
 
Examine lighted areas and foreign materials for algal and fungal growth and treat with a dilute sodium hypochlorite solution as needed. We are examining other treatment options as well. We also modify lights as necessary to reduce growth.
 
Currently developing and implementing plans to automate much of the monitoring and increase temporal resolution on the data. We are developing a mix of stand-alone and centrally wired systems to supplement data gathered by rangers.
 
Use a variety of temperature data loggers including both Thermochron buttons (Dallas Semiconductor) and HOBO dataloggers (Onset Computer Corp.) for long and short term monitoring.
 
University of Arizona Radiation Control Office is overseeing our Radon Monitoring program.
 
During construction additional specific monitoring occurs.
 
 
Notable Management Issues.
 
Arizona State Parks is committed to maintaining the cave in as close to a natural state as possible, while providing access for public education.
 
ASP is concerned with the potential for adverse changes to cave microclimate (as are other parties).
 
ASP is concerned with potential development near the park that could have an adverse impact on the cave or cave resources.
 
Maintenance of a healthy bat population is vital to the cave ecosystem.
 
Developing a long-term cave management plan.
 
Developing a long-term research plan and program for the cave.
 
Developing a scientific advisory team with the University of Arizona to evaluate research and research proposals and to assist with management issues.
 

HISTORIC MILESTONES
 
November 1974
Randy Tufts and Gary Tenen discover the main cave and over the next two-years they explore it. Because of the accessibility of the site and a rise in cave‹‹vandalism around the state Tufts and Tenen adopt a strict secrecy policy and‹code name the cave Xanadu
 
February 1978
Tufts and Tenen tell the property owners James A. and Lois M. Kartchner about the cave. The Kartchner family begins exploring the cave with the discoverers.
 
April 1985
Governor Bruce Babbitt and his two sons tour the cave. They then contact the Nature Conservancy and Arizona State Parks.
 
April 1987
Ken Travous became Director of Arizona State Parks and acquisition of the cave for a state park becomes a priority.
 
March 1988
The Nature Conservancy purchases the property for $1.8 million, $250,000 less-than the appraised value, from the Kartchners to hold it for the Arizona State Parks Board until the Legislature authorizes the park and appropriates money
 
April 26, 1988
The “Secret Cave" story breaks to the media and the public from KTVK Channel 3.
 
April 27, 1988
Legislature approves and Governor Rose Mofford signs Senate Bill 1188 creating Kartchner Caverns State Park
 
May 1988
Arizona State Parks Board purchases the property from The Nature Conservancy for $1.8 million
 

Discovery Center Exhibits
On Monday, April 6 1998, exhibit contractors working for Arizona State Parks installed two major exhibits in the "Discovery Center" at Kartchner Caverns State Park located in southeastern Arizona.
 
The Shasta Ground Sloth exhibit was created by PDM Incorporated artists from Tucson, Arizona. The Shasta Ground Sloth, a 6-7 foot tall mammal, was built out of fiberglass. A mural in the background of the exhibit depicts the savanna, now called the San Pedro Valley.
 
The exhibit includes a three-dimensional fiberglass replica of the bone bed where the tibia, femur, and humerus of the sloth were discovered. The slanted knucklebone found at the site is the bone paleontologist Jim Mead of Northern Arizona University used to identify the mammal as a ground sloth.
 
The next display, "Underground Journey" depicts the inside of the cave. Created by Fibervision, Inc. of Tucson, the simulated cave experience has stalactites, stalagmites, columns, bacon drapery, and a fried egg. A replica of the world famous 21-foot "soda straw" stalagmite is a separate exhibit. The exhibit has a touch screen monitor with ten different backroom views of the cave. One view will show the actual "blow hole" that the discoverers had to crawl through to get into the cave.
 
Mead believes the fossilized bones found in travertine in a remote section of the cave called the "Echo Passage" are about 80,000 years old. Shasta ground sloths are mammals of the Pleistocene (Ice Age) but became extinct 10,000 years ago. They ranged over much of the Southwest but seem to have been particularly common in southwestern Arizona and southern New Mexico.
 
Just 25 miles south of Kartchner Caverns State Park at the "Lehner Mammoth Kill Site," University of Arizona scientists uncovered the bones of nine mammoths, a tapir, a bison, and a horse. The most spectacular part of this find, however, was the presence of tools which humans would have used for killing, processing and roasting the mega fauna in the savanna such as mastodons, saber tooth tigers, and mammoths. Fire hearths, projectile points, and butchering tools were found and radio carbon dating placed the site at about 11,200 years old. What caused the extinction of the large herbivores (plant eaters) and carnivores (meat eaters) is not fully understood.
 
Extinction could have been caused by the rapid change of the cold Wisconsinan Glacial climate to the warm-cold season change that we experience today. That mystery remains as scientists continue to explore the southwestern sites.
 
During construction, a trail building crew in the "Tarantula Tunnel" found part of a femur and the top half of the skull of a horse, and the lower left jaw of a black bear and a tooth belonging to another horse.
 
No human remains (archaeological materials) have been found in any part of the cave.
 
 
KARTCHNER CAVERNS STATE PARK DRAWS RV TRAVELERS
 
The campground at Kartchner Caverns State Park in southern Arizona attracts hundreds of travelers. The 63-space campground is popular with travelers for many reasons but the cave tours are the main attraction. This 550-acre State Park in the Chihuahuan Desert incorporates the lower rolling hills of the Whetstone Mountains, which are mostly Escabrosa limestone, that contain these famous caverns. Buried deep within these caverns lies one of the top ten caves of the world, known for the its vast displays of mineral formations.
Reservations for the cave tours are taken months in advance, but there are no reservations for the campground. “The campers seem to think this is one of the most awesome experiences in Arizona,” said Dave Pawlik. The views of the Whetstone Mountains behind them, and across to the San Pedro Valley toward the Dragoons is always spectacular. The hiking trails and Hummingbird Garden, along with the stunning Discovery Center, keep people busy all day, added Pawlik.
Ferdon noted that the campground has the amenities campers look for when traveling including water and electric hookups and hot showers. Hot showers seem to bring them in droves and access to the various trails into French Joe Canyon and into Whetstone Mountains is part of the draw. Since the Park sits at 5,000 feet many people do not realize that it is cooler in the summer, which makes it perfect as a hub for tours throughout Southern Arizona to Tombstone, Bisbee, Nogales, Sonoita and all the nearby southern wineries.
The park is open seven days a week and reservations for camping are not necessary. The staff recommends campers arrive no later than 5:00 pm. The cost to camp is $22 and the stay limit is 14 days. There are no open fires of any kind allowed at this campground and personal checks are not accepted.
 
All of the 27 State Parks are OPEN!! For more details or information on Arizona State Parks see their webpage at www.azstateparks.com or call (602) 542-4174 to get directions to the parks or long distance call 800-285- 3703.
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CHINA / THAILAND TRIP – NOVEMBER 2009   Doc.
  CHINA / THAILAND TRIP – NOVEMBER 2009
 
I was very excited as I prepared to leave for the airport for my trip to China and then on to Thailand. Away for an entire month! The plan was about 12 days in China and then the rest of the month with my friends in Thailand.
 
Well so much for that because when I arrived at the Terminal to check in at “Air China” to leave for Beijing I was told my flight had been cancelled indefinitely due to snowstorms in Beijing. Apparently the plane we were going to take was still in Beijing unable to take off due to the weather.
 
The Air China staff was pushing everyone to ‘check in’ which many did ….. watching their luggage disappear into the bowels of the airport. When I asked what the best case scenario was this is what I was told – “It is a 14 hour flight from Beijing so even if the plane left right now they would not arrive for 14 hours – plus a mandatory rest period for the pilots before they could return – and they had no idea when the plane would leave Beijing – so it would possibly be 3 days”.
 
Once again I looked at baggage disappearing as the clerk said “so let’s check you in” – WRONG!
 
I walked over to the Cathay Pacific aisle – asked about when I could get a flight to Bangkok – left on a flight 30 minutes later to Hong Kong with a connecting flight in the morning to Bangkok.
 
Upon arrival at the Hong Kong airport I made my way to the ‘Travelers Lounge’ near gate 50 and paid about $50 for which I received: Dinner – sleep room – shower and breakfast.
 
The next morning I flew into Bangkok and was met by my wonderful Thai friend, John to begin a month in Thailand. John is considered one of the best Thailand Tour Guides, and I am proud to have him as my friend.
The first week I had the opportunity to travel with John who was taking a tour group from Myanmar around Thailand. We went to the beach resort town of Pattaya, shopping in Bangkok, to the floating market and the safari park.
 
What a wonderful group of people and very friendly.
 
After they returned to Maynmar, John and I plus a friend of John named Wo (also a tour guide) and we started on our journey to the north of Thailand.
 
We traveled by car from Bangkok up to Kalasin where we stayed with some friends of mine for a few days, and visited many temples and parks along the way on this trip. We made a day trip to the Laos border and then over to the Golden Triangle where most of the drugs used to be smuggled through.
 
From Kalasin we traveled north into the mountains to Chiang Rai. The nature was exquisite, and we stopped at the hot springs along the way.
 
Finally we arrived in Chiang Mai where we met up with another tour guide friend, Victor, who lives in Chiang Mai.
 
The night market in Chiang Mai is very famous, crowded, fun – and you can find anything your heart desires.
 
On this trip with my Thai friends I got to really see the Thai culture, how the people live out in the villages, and to make friends along the way.
 
The food is always so fresh – typically the produce right from the garden that day and the fish, chicken and meats just butchered that morning. Nothing is pre-packaged like here in the USA – all is fresh and tasty.
 
The Temples throughout Thailand are innumerable – intense – and awe inspiring as you will see from my photos. Their beauty and peacefulness reaches directly into your soul.
 
I am already planning another trip to Thailand in May 2010 with my son Dan who came with me to Kenya a couple of years ago. We will spend 2 weeks in Phuket hopefully getting some good scuba diving in as well as enjoying the island and the surrounding islands.
 
It is time to travel. Thailand is a beautiful country with very low prices for everything from hotels, to food and travel within Thailand. Email me if you are interested in going and I will set up the arrangements for you through my travel agency – Tour & Travel Organizers Ltd.
 
Peter A Distefano, Editor In Chief
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TRIP TO THAILAND   Doc.
  TRIP TO THAILAND
 
JUNE 2008
 
PETER A DISTEFANO, EDITOR
 

I was very anxious to begin my trip to Thailand, since this was going to be my very first visit to this beautiful country. Thailand is called the country of smiles, and you rarely, if ever, see the Thai people with anything but a smile on their faces.
 

I watched them in the midst of rush hour traffic, and even then all I saw were smiles – no road rage at all. The majority of the Thai people drive small motorbikes, and weave in and out of traffic like they are immortal. I even saw a family of 4 on one of these tiny motorbikes!
 

I flew to Thailand and back to San Francisco on Cathay Pacific Air, and was pleasantly surprised to find how smooth their operation is run. Check-in was painless – Coach seats were comfortable – Cabin temperature was perfect – Food was tasty and there were Video screens on the back of each seat for each passenger. We will add Cathay Pacific on our list of recommended airlines.
 

The flight took me to Hong Kong with a 3 hour layover and then a short flight to Bangkok. Be prepared to walk in both the Hong Kong and Bangkok airports as they are both very large.
 

Upon arrival in Bangkok at midnight I was picked up by my first guide, John, and taken to my hotel (Bangkok Amari Don Muang Hotel) for a few hours of sleep.
 

Up and out at 9AM and on our way to see the sights.
 

In Thailand there are two types of temples. The Royal Temple is the one in Bangkok and is supported by Thailand’s king, and the Common Temples are the ones in each village which are supported by the villagers.
 

The Royal Temple is huge and well kept with hundreds of gold-leafed statues of Buddha and other lesser gods all throughout the temple. While we were there we saw a white robed young man going through the ceremony making him a Buddhist monk.
 

The white robe is symbolic of learning what is necessary, and at the end of the ceremony he is given his orange monk’s robes.
 

John bought me a bamboo wrapped and cooked sweet rice type fast food that was warm and great comfort food that was being sold in front of the temple.
 

We then drove up towards Kachanaburi to visit the Bridge on the River Kwai. Yes there really is a bridge – not the original that was built by POW’s during WWII – but the one built after that was destroyed and is still in use by the ‘Death Railway’.
 

The Death Railway is a narrow gauge train which was the purpose of the original bridge to transport troops and ammunition back and forth, but is now just a tourist attraction. The railway got its name because at one point where the rail goes around the side of a cliff the train will topple over if it goes more than 3-4 miles per hour around the curve.
 

Next to the bridge is a museum built in the same manner as the buildings the POW’s had to sleep in while building the bridge, and it is terrible to see what the POW’s had to go through.
The bridge was supposed to take 26 months to be built, but the Japanese pushed the POW’s so hard it was done in 6 months.
 

It cost thousands of lives and the museum is named the “JEATH Museum” in honor of those POW’s who died – each letter depicting the country of the soldiers who died there (Japanese / English / Australian / Thai / Holland).
 

We stopped at an Elephant camp where I had the honor of being allowed to actually drive one of the elephants. It is a strange feeling to be sitting on the neck of such a huge animal with your legs behind his ears directing which way you want him to go and nothing to hold on to.
 

At the same elephant camp when I was standing with a huge old bull elephant, he gently lifted me by his trunk and rested me on his tusks and lifted me in the air.
 

I spent the night at the Felix River Kwai Hotel right on the river, and had a fantastic dinner meal at a restaurant overlooking the river in town.
 

We returned to Bangkok for an overnight, and I picked up another guide, Tui, from the same company for the next phase of the trip to Pattaya. This part of the trip I was with a fun group of couples from the Los Angeles area, and they were great to travel with.
 

Pattaya is a beautiful resort town on the ocean about 1 ½ hours from Bangkok. There is a lot of manufacturing and commercial warehouses in the area since it is an excellent seaport.
 

In the Pattaya area we visited the Nong Nooch Tropical Garden and Cultural Village, where we had the opportunity to see a wonderful Thai cultural array of dancing, Muay Thai Kick-boxing, and elephants actually drawing pictures which was amazing to watch.
 

We also took a boat ride to Coral Island and spent the day lounging at the beach, snorkeling, riding jet ski’s and having a wonderful lunch of fresh BBQ Chicken, prawns, crab, salad, potatoes and more.
 

That evening we went to a Broadway style musical showcase of transvestites (men dressed as women). It was an extremely well done production, and had you not known ahead of time you really would not guess these were all men.
 

During my stay I had the opportunity to have a very relaxing Thai Traditional massage one evening, and on another evening had an amazing 45 minute leg and foot massage.
 

The food in Thailand was excellent every place we ate, and during that time I felt I was eating very healthy – unusual for me!
 

The Thai people are very courteous and very kind. Being the gregarious person I am I took every opportunity I could to try to get to know many of the Thai people I came in contact with. I even met a very lovely Thai lady in Pattaya, and we are both still communicating with each other.
 

Both my guides, John and Tui, were fun to be with. My last night with John we went out in Kachanaburi and had some fun, and my last night in Bangkok with Tui we also went out together and had a fantastic time. I promised that on my return visit the three of us would spend a night out on the town.
 

It was with a little bit of sadness that I left Thailand, but I had scheduled a three day stay in Hong Kong on the way back to America.
 

In retrospect I wish I had not stayed in Hong Kong. I had asked the Hong Kong Tourism Bureau to recommend a guide so I could learn more about the Hong Kong Chinese culture and I wanted to explore the many different styles of Chinese foods available.
 

No guide was ever recommended – although they had told me they would send me names and contact info.
 

I stayed at the Renaissance Harbor View Hotel right on Victoria Harbor which was very nice, and I had a marvelous harbor view from my 37th floor room.
 

Other than that, I found the shopping area in Kowloon to be crowded and every few feet you were accosted by people trying to drag you into their shop to sell you custom clothing. I did take a one day tour around the city which was informative and went to the Stanley Marketplace and did some shopping.
 

I did manage to find and buy a very nice unset jade stone which I will have made either into a ring or a pendant.
 

When I look at my photos of my trip which are on the website it reminds me of the happy days I spent with the smiling Thai people and reminds me that someday soon I need to make a return visit.
  • Not Present   • 

THE 2007 AMAZING JOURNEY THROUGH KENYA   Doc.
  THE 2007 AMAZING JOURNEY THROUGH KENYA
 
As we previously announced, we left San Francisco at the end of October 2007 to embark on a month long tour.
 
We spent the first 5 days in Amsterdam relieving ourselves of the jet lag due to the time change. We discovered that Amsterdam is very crowded with about every ethnic group you can think of, but the city itself and the architecture is wonderful to view. We did the usual tourist things like the Van Gogh Museum, canal water tour, and a walking trip through the city including the infamous Red Light District.
 
We left Amsterdam excited about our upcoming trek into Kenya. As you know, last year I visited Kenya for one week at the behest of the Kenya Tourism Bureau and absolutely fell in love with the country and the people.
 
So this year I decided to extend our visit to 3 weeks in this amazing country, and to bring my son, Dan, with me so he could see this magical country as well.
 
The first week we were once again under the auspices of the Kenya Tourism Bureau, and here is how that week went:
 
We arrived in Kenya on KLM Airline having flown from San Francisco through Amsterdam in Business Class.
 
KLM did a great job of providing excellent service, food and video/audio entertainment.
 
The ‘new’ business class seats, which unfortunately are not in all their units yet, are very comfortable. On our flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi we were unlucky enough to get the ‘old’ seats. Whoever the engineer was that designed the old seats should have his engineering license taken away from him because he obviously doesn’t have a clue about the human body!
 
We were met at the airport by the driver from our tour operator, Abercrombie & Kent, and taken to the hotel we had chosen for the first 2 days prior to the KTB Familiarization Tour.
 
The Stanley Hotel is an excellent hotel located in the heart of the Nairobi business district, and suited us fine so we could wander around some of the shops.
 
I especially like shopping at “The Collectors Den” at the Hilton Shopping Arcade because I know I am getting excellent goods at fantastic prices. They are honest and have great integrity, and I recommend them highly.
 
Last year I purchased from them an awesome 6ct Tanzanite Gemstone – flawless color/perfect cut at about one-half of USA cost. This year I purchased two beautifully hand-carved wooden pieces and two Maasai spears.
 
A very wonderful friend from Kenya that I had met on my previous trip took us around Nairobi the day after we arrived. Later in the day she asked if we would like to go to one of the local pubs so we ended up at a place called Juk’s.
 
Now in Nairobi, a local pub is not like your typical watering hole in the USA. It has a unique atmosphere of friendliness and welcome-ness (make yourself at home).
 
We were joined by my friend’s brother Bunzo, her cousin Evo, her cousin’s brother, another friend who is a lawyer………and finally by John Niva my good friend and the best guide in Africa – who couldn’t figure out how we ended up at Juk’s!
 
It was a fabulous time and we dined on fresh made and cooked blood sausage (not for the weak stomached), and nyama choma (Fresh killed and cooked leg of Goat) which was then cut up at the table and served as finger food.
 
It was the perfect way to start our time in Kenya.
 

The next day we were transported from the Stanley Hotel to a beautiful property in Nairobi called the ‘House of Waine’ which is an 11-bedroom property on 2.5 acres that blends the elegance of gracious living with the spirit of modern Africa in an exclusive and serene setting. The 11 bedrooms are individually decorated with each bathroom elegantly done in marble.
 
At the House of Waine we met the other 5 members of our week long Safari trip with the KTB. We were extremely lucky to have Julie Drietz of the KTB USA with us as she was fun to travel with and very easy going and a source of information when needed.
 
That evening we were invited to a reception at the U.S. Ambassadors residence. At the reception we met other travel agents from the USA who were there for the Fam trip as well as some of the other sponsoring Tour Operators – and members of the US Embassy.
 
It was a nice evening with great traditional finger food and beverages, and speeches by the Ambassador and members of the Kenya Tour Operators Association.
 
LEWA DOWNS – rated 5 stars
 
The following day we were whisked off by Kenya Air to our first stop at Lewa Downs to Abercrombie & Kents mobile Camp site. A mobile camp site is one that is not permanent and must be shut down and moved off leaving the area as pristine as when they arrived.
 
Being under tent when you are with tour operators like A&K still means luxury. Each tent has 2 beds, flush toilet and hot water showers, and the dining area was separate and under canvas. Each tent had its own camp butler to take care of your every need.
 
Food, service, and cordiality were right on a par with a 5 star hotel.
 
The hills are in the heart of the Laikipia region a broad swath of lava plateau that reached the foothills of Mt Kenya on one side and in contrast, the wild deserts of the Northern Frontier District on the other.
 
Lewa Downs is probably East Africa’s finest conservancy and is home to the Craig family who has been concentrating on the conservation of game and is now one of the country’s great success stories.
 
They now have over sixty rhino, both black and white on their property as well as a thriving predator population and a plethora of plains game and smaller beasts.
 
In addition to viewing Elephants, Rhino, Baboons, Antelope of varying types; we had the unique experience of feeding an orphaned white rhino baby. My son also had the unique experience of having a baby rhino get upset with him because unfortunately the bottle of milk ran out while he was feeding her ---- and she let him know just how unhappy she was. It was very funny – to the rest of us!
 
Mobil camping is a ‘must-do’ to have the real Africa experience!
 
SABUK LODGE – LAKIPIA – rated 5 stars
 
After two days at Lewa Downs we were whisked of by Tropic Air to Loisaba Airstrip where we were met and transferred to Sabuk Lodge (a permanent lodge) for the next two nights.
 
Sabuk lodge is spectacular and is perched high on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River, in the Northern Frontier District, overlooking the Laikipia Plateau and Samburu land.
 
Five open sided cottages, each one unique in design, have ensuite bathrooms with open verandas facing out over the river gorge 150 feet below.
 
The spacious mess building includes a dining room, lounge and mezzanine library.
 
This area is the home of the greater Kudu, reticulated giraffe, buffalo, Impala, elephant, Zebra, DikDik, Waterbuck, Lion, Leopard and bird watching.
 
 
While at Sabuk we had the fantastic adventure of going on a camel safari. These gentle beasts provide a calm and easy gate while walking, but you must hold on very tight when they are getting ready to stand up or sit down – as one end goes before the other!
 
We visited a Samburu village for the weekly get together of the young warriors and women where they dance for hours and hours never tiring. The young women love to flirt with the men, and the men, of course, are trying to impress the young women. To show if they are impressed by a woman, the man will touch the top of her head.
 
The Samburu are a gentle and very happy people.
 
Verity, the manager, was always available and doting on her guests making you feel welcome. Food was gourmet and in abundance. The cottages and views unbelievable.
 
OLONANA CAMP – MAASAI MARA – rated 5 stars
 
Sadly we left Sabuk after 2 days with our thoughts of the camel ride and the Samburu dancing, and were whisked off by Tropic Air to Camp Olonana on the great Maasai Mara.
 
Olonana is a permanent tented camp with en-suite bathrooms and showers and is very nicely appointed. It sits right on the banks of the Mara River where you can listen and watch the hippos play in the water right in front of your tent.
 
Fantastic menu’ed meals and individual camp butlers make the stay perfect along with Minnie’s caring concern about making your stay memorable and happy.
 
The Maasai Mara boasts the most game in Kenya of every type you can think – and then some – are they are waiting for you to find and see them.
 
The Wildebeest migration was still going on while we were there, and it is breathtaking to be in the middle of these beasts. Every way you turned all you could see was Wildebeests as far as the eye could see.
 

Thanks to our amazing driver guide, Joseph, and our A&K guide, John Niva we were able to view:
 
· A Lion Kill of a Wildebeest
· A cheetah family attack on a Wildebeest herd
· Crocodiles catching Wildebeests crossing the river
· Hippos
· DikDik
· Buffalo
· Antelopes of all kinds
· Gnu’s
· Serval Cats
· Giraffe’s
· Elephants
· Topi
· Eland
· Thomson’s & Grants Gazelle
· And so much more
 
We spent one of our days on the Maasai Mara from 8AM until 5PM, and had a lunch on the Mara as well.
 
This was the day we spent 1 ½ hours watching a cheetah family getting ready to go after a baby Wildebeest in the herd. The patience they showed ever moving closer and closer to the herd without being seen, and then to see the amazing speed when they attacked is something I will never forget – and luckily capture on film.
 
NORFOLK HOTEL – NAIROBI – rated 4 stars
 
Well after 3 nights at Olonana we were flown back to Nairobi and the Norfolk Hotel to prepare for the evenings Celebration and dinner sponsored by the Kenya Tourism Bureau.
 
The Norfolk Hotel has been remodeled recently, and is now back to its former glory and I highly recommend it even though it is not close to downtown – which could be good or bad depending on your desire.
 
 

BOMAS CULTURAL CENTER GALA CELEBRATION
& DINNER
 
The Celebration and dinner was held at the Bomas Cultural Center.
 
The Bomas Cultural Center is unique in that is has built small villages of every tribal culture in Kenya, and each village has tribal people of that representative tribe.
 
After partaking in a fermented tribal beverage, we were shown into the various villages where I was taken to the village dancers and participated in their tribal dances. I was told I did a pretty good job – maybe it was the fermented beverage!!!
 
Then we proceeded to the huge tent where we were greeted by the KTB representatives and outfitted with a traditional Maasai wrap and beaded belt as well as a nice tropical drink.
 
There was a plethora of entertainment from Kenyan dancers and singers intermixed with a fantastic buffet dinner with all types of ethnic tribal food and drink.
 
We heard from The Ministry of Tourism and other members of the government and tourism about how tourism from the USA is growing and this year had already reached 85,000 tourists and the expected to go over the 100,000 mark by year end.
 
This is wonderful to hear, and we hope to add to this in the coming years.
 
Surprisingly, I was asked to make an impromptu speech about this trip to Kenya and how I feel about Kenya.
 
 
Being the shy and retiring person that I am, I rushed right up to the stage and began to pour my heart out about how much I loved Kenya and especially its people.
 
I guess it went over well as many journalists who were there later came and interviewed me.
 
Then the dancing started, and the Head of Public Relations for the KTB, Rose Kwena, pulled me onto the dance floor where I eventually got nabbed by one of the professional dance entertainers and brought to the center of the circle where she and I danced until I thought my legs would give way. I started wondering if I could make it back to the table!
 
It was a great first week in Kenya, and my son and I were looking forward to our second week.
 

AMBOSILI NATIONAL PARK – TORTILIS CAMP – rated 4.5 stars
 
We were transferred from the Norfolk Hotel to Wilson Airport where we boarded Air Kenya and flew to Amboseli National Park and then driven to Tortilis Camp.
 
On the way to the camp we saw some Elephants, Giraffe’s and Hippos, and stopped and had some prepared coffee, tea and cookies at a lookout hill which my intrepid athletic son decided to hike to the top of for a view.
 
It was very dry and dusty, and later we learned from our driver that apparently Ambosili means ‘the dusty place’! During the wet season the entire basin turns into a shallow lake for miles and miles.
 
The other thing we saw was a Giraffe with a broken leg along the side of the road. Our driver guide advised us that the predators would finish him off that night – which happened as we saw the next day with all the vultures cleaning the bones off. As horrible as that might sound, it is nature’s way of providing and the weak and sick are taken care of this way in the wild.
 
The Tortilis Camp is a very nice property. It is a permanent tented camp which is well appointed with en-suite bathrooms and showers.
 
The main house is perched on the top of a look-out hill and each of the 15 accommodation tents down the hill has a view of the plains. Below the main house is also a water hole where the game animals come to in the evening for water.
 
Two major complaints, and the only reason we did not award 5 stars to this property was:
 
1. Very impersonal management – hardly knew they were there and the intro to the place left a lot to be desired – like even when the meals were served!!!
2. The hill climb from the tents to the main house is steep, and we heard many older guests (including myself) complaining about having to climb it 5 times a day (3 meals and 2 game drives).
 
Luckily our driver advised us when we complained about the hill that he would come to our tent and pick us up and bring us back, but no one in management made that known to anyone staying there. A German couple we hooked up with also were having a hard time as the husband had a very bad ankle – in fact was going in for ankle replacement when they returned home ………. But management didn’t seem to care.
 
We saw a large pride of lions, large herds of elephants, hyena’s, cheetahs, the golden weaver bird, green grass snakes, giraffes, vultures, eagles, and so much more.
 
The views of Mt Kilimanjaro were awesome and spectacular sitting 19,340 feet above sea level.
 
 
 
 
 
SAMBURU GAME RESERVE – LARSEN CAMP –
rated 5 stars
 
Once again we took to the skies after 2 nights at Tortilis Camp and flew via Air Kenya to the Samburu Game Reserve where we were then driven to Larsens Camp.
 
Larsen Camp is a luxurious permanent tented camp sitting on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro river in the heart of the game reserve.
 
Monkeys abound throughout the camp, and a young Samburu warrior was at the meals playing a flute and chasing the monkeys away.
 
At this point, after being on the Mara, the only animal we still had not seen was a leopard.
 
The first game ride out that evening we spotted a leopard and I managed to get some nice shots - with no help from our driver who seemed more interested in speaking on his radio to other game drivers out in the bush.
 
Our driver paid no attention to our wishes and barely managed to hold the vehicle still so we could shoot our photos. He was the worst of all the game driver/guides we had on the trip, and later when we checked the map we saw that he kept us in a very small area of this wonderful game reserve.
 
The other animal we saw was the giraffe-necked gerenuk antelope that stands on its hind legs to feed on the tops of the bushes.
 
Larsens Camp manager, Mike Morris, was very amiable and doted on making our stay pleasant and enjoyable (Tortilis take note!). This is a keynote to an enjoyable stay.
 
Meals and accommodations were superb.
 
 

LAMU – MANDA BAY – rated 5+ stars
 
Once again Air Kenya lifted us to the clouds and landed us on the coast at Lamu.
 
Hats off to the owners who were not only hospitable but a lot of fun to be around. It was like being at home …. Except better.
 
Manda Bay is one of those resorts you see in the travel magazines and you ‘wish you were there’…… well we were there.
 

Beautiful native cottages all on the beach facing the water wonderfully appointed with large bathrooms and showers.
 
All the amenities you could ask for:
 
· Swimming pool
· Sandy beaches
· Water skiing
· Water boarding
· Tube rides
· Ping pong
· Billiards
· Fishing Trips
· Flying trips
· Sailing
· Snorkeling
· Scuba Diving
 
Dinners were mainly seafood since we were on the Indian Ocean, and typically served at a long table on the beach by candlelight where the owners mixed everyone up so you got a chance to meet everyone staying there.
 
One evening it was separate tables on the beach by candlelight!
 
Here I was in the most romantic place I could think of – having dinner on the beach by candlelight ….. and I’m with my son!!!! Something was wrong with that picture.
 
My son water-skied, we both went snorkeling and we both went for a days sail on a 40 foot dhow where they actually barbequed a great lunch for us.
 
We certainly didn’t want to leave, but after a hug and a kiss from one of the lovely owners we were ferried back to Lamu and to the airport for our flight back to Nairobi where we would begin the final chapter of our journey through Kenya.
 
 

THE FINAL CHAPTER – WEEK THREE –
see ratings in story
 
Well this is where the fun really begins for my son and I. This was our opportunity to get out on our own basically without guides and off to an area of Kenya that many do not bother to go see.
 
Before leaving we spent the night at the Stanley Hotel. In the morning we had our rental car (a 4X4 Mitsubishi SUV) delivered to the hotel by Avis Car Rental, and off we went heading towards the city of Nyeri.
 
Considering that in Kenya they drive on the left side of the road, and that the traffic is horrendous - with no thought to lights or signs (unless a cop was at the intersection) - we were smart enough to have a friend drive the vehicle to outside the city.
 
The public cabs are a real trip to watch. They will drive on the sidewalks with people jumping to get out of the way and push and shove their way through traffic. There are many police stops on the roads where primarily they pull over the public taxis and buses to check everyone’s papers. We were never pulled over. One thing we never saw even in this melee of traffic – road rage – everyone was calm and peaceful.
 
Once outside the city my son, Dan, took over the driving and did so well that 5 days later when we returned he drove all the way into Nairobi and back to the hotel.
 
When we reached Nyeri we checked into the Outspan Hotel. This was a terrible disappointment for such a wonderful property. The Outspan has “outlasted” its prime days. It has been let go and not taken care of with leaking plumbing, mold and peeling paint in the rooms. Dead bugs all over the rooms (I suppose that is better than live ones!), and in one room that we had they had bolted the shower closed and the shower in the bath spewed water all over the bathroom.
 
We had confirmed reservations for a cottage but they did not have one for us on the first night. The second night we had a cottage, but when I pulled the covers on my bed back there were dead bugs in the bedding.
 
The third night we stayed there was a different cottage which at least did not have any dead bugs!
 
The breakfasts they served were not bad but way under the class we had at the other places we stayed.
 
My friend’s family who lived in Nyeri treated us like part of the family, fed us well and made us feel like home.
 
I also had the privilege to meet my friend’s 105 year old grandmother. She served us bananas from her tree and wanted to change clothes when I asked to take her picture.
 
She decided I was Muzungu (white Kikuyu), but she said I could keep my name. If I married a Kikuyu woman then I would become Kenya Kikuyu and could still keep my name. She was an amazing woman, and to think about all the changes she has seen in her years boggles the mind. At 105 she stated that the next time I came for a visit that I must spend the night in her house – so that when she visits me in America then she could stay at my house. She also said she could find me a Kikuyu woman to marry!
 
We drove another day to Sweetwater Tented Camp (5 stars) in Nanyuki in the Mt. Kenya region and the four of us spent the night there.
 
While there we also visited the Chimpanzee Rescue where I adopted Tess – a rescued chimpanzee.
 
My friend took us to tour a large rose plantation and we got to see every aspect of rose growing and exporting. After the tour, the owner took us to the local country club for lunch.
 
The following day her father took us to a coffee plantation owned and operated by his friend, and we also got to see that entire operation.
 
Dole operates pineapple farms up in that area, and they are so sweet and delicious – the pineapples not Dole!
 
I got the opportunity to watch my friend’s mother make chapati which is a Kenyan delicacy similar to a tortilla. I’ve got the recipe so now I need to try to make it.
 
All too soon it was time to leave and go back to Nairobi to catch our flight back to San Francisco. We had a long layover in Amsterdam but the flight itself was excellent by KLM.
 
 

MY THOUGHTS
 
Well I guess it is time to admit it – I’M IN LOVE!!!!!
 
No No – not with a person, but with a culture, a people, a country.
 
Kenya grabbed my heart last year, but this year it captured my heart completely.
 
I felt for the animals, and was tearfully grateful to see them in their natural habitat and happy to know this wonderful country was dedicated to protecting them.
 
The Masaii, the Kikuyu, The Samburu and every other person I met were warm and gentle to me and welcomed me into their world.
 
The geography was breathtaking and both Mt Kenya and Mt Kilimanjaro were truly storybook pictures.
 
I was so happy that I brought my son with me to see this wonderful part of the world, and to have the opportunity to meet the people that make up this world so he can understand the need to travel and see the world and its people.
 
They are in the closing days of electing a new president, and it seems that every man and woman is very involved in knowing what these politicians are doing. If only the people of America took their politics this seriously we might have good and decent government representatives.
 
The Kenya world is slowly changing. As the economy increases and education takes hold this will change Kenya and all of Africa.
 
This is neither bad nor good as my Masaii friend told me – “it is the way of life”.
 
I thank everyone who befriended us on this trip, and there were many.
 
I must also specifically thank certain people and groups who really made it a trip of a lifetime for me:
 
John Niva of Abercrombie & Kent – and the best guide in Africa
Gathoni Gatimu – truly a very special friend for life
The Gatimu Family for making us feel like part of their family
Everyone at the Kenya Tourism Bureau
Joseph – our guide in the Mara who saw and recognized my deep love and respect for the animals
 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
PETER A DISTEFANO, EDITOR IN CHIEF
WORLD TRAVELER NEWS
COPYRIGHT 2007 – ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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JEJU ISLAND   Doc.
  JEJU ISLAND – SOUTH KOREA – AN ISLAND OF WORLD PEACE
ASTA INTERNATIONAL DESTINATION EXPO
 
I have just returned from my first trip to South Korea where the American Society of Travel Agents held their second annual International Destination Expo.
 
I want to give kudos to ASTA for setting up a marvelous and extremely well run Expo in a truly beautiful and exotic setting. The travel agents who attended were able to learn about many other Asian destinations as well as attaining destination specialist certificates for attending educational seminars.
 
Traveling from San Francisco to Jeju is a very long flight. It was 13 hours from San Francisco to Seoul, South Korea and then transferring to another airport for another 1 hour flight to Jeju Island.
 
I flew on Asiana Airlines in business class and I can honestly state that they are one of the very best airlines to fly with. Extremely comfortable sleeper seats – gourmet food – excellent service and an entertainment system that never seems to run out of movies.
 
Jeju Island sits southwest of the Korean peninsula. It is roughly an oval shape and filled with an abundance of natural attractions – some of which you will see in the photos I have taken for this article.
 
Jeju Island is considered the Hawaiian Islands of Korea and it is a well known honeymoon spot for travelers from all over Asia.
 
The heart of Jeju is Mt. Halla with it towering beauty. Jeju Island is volcanic, and there are awesome lava tubes throughout the island many of which you are able to walk through.
 
Jeju, the land of Samda is blessed with three abundances:
 
1. Seokdo (Stone) comes from the volcanic eruptions
2. Pungda (Wind) explains the barren environment due to Jeju being in the path of typhoons
3. Yeoda (Women) is part of the culture because many men would die at sea
 
The scenic coastal features vary on every side of the island due to the weather and the way the island evolved during the volcanic eruptions. You will find craggy lava boulders in some areas to beautiful sandy beaches in other areas and waterfalls going right into the ocean in others.
 
You wonder what will be around the next corner as you drive throughout the island.
 
Flowers abound in the spring and summer months, and the island gets quite a bit of snow in the winter months. There are also winter sports on the mountain.
 
Jeju Island boasts a World Cup stadium which has hosted many international sports events, triathlons and other events.
 
Jeju Island has one of the best International Conference Centers in Asia. Once again their staff and the facilities were run smoothly and competently.
 
Unlike the International Destination Expo last year in Prague where we had to stand and eat buffet style with no tables at two of the wonderful meals that were hosted for the Expo – this year in Korea all of the fantastic dinners were served to all the attendees at white tablecloth tables which certainly was more comfortable for everyone.
 
I arrived in Jeju a few days before the Expo, and had the opportunity to tour the island without being in a large group thanks to the generosity of the Self Governing Province of Jeju who provided me a car to use.
 
I also took advantage of some of the group tours during the Expo which were set up by New Aju Tours who was in charge of the ASTA IDE tours and is a travel company I recommend highly. I have posted their information at the end of this article for your use.
 
I find that sightseeing on my own allows me to take the time I need to obtain photographs as well as being able to enjoy places without the time restraints that group tours impose.
 
Let me speak a little to the accommodations available on Jeju Island.
 
After traveling for almost 22 hours, I arrived at my hotel, The Shilla, on Jeju Island tired and worn out.
 
Immediately upon arriving an attendant was there to take my suitcases from the airport bus. Check-in was quick and painless, and I was very impressed with the size and beauty of the lobby of the hotel.
 
I was quickly whisked off to my room, and my bags were placed on the stands in the room.
 
When I tried to tip the bellman, he politely refused – no tipping was allowed.
 
The room was very spacious, and the closet was in the entry hall along with a well-stocked mini-bar. The bathroom was immense and contained both a bath tub and a separate shower.
 
The real surprise was the heated toilet seat replete with built in bidet!
 
The only warning I would give about the hotels is the cost of food and drink in the hotels. I quickly found a convenience store where I brought juice and snacks back to the room.
 
Just to give you an idea – breakfast at the Shilla was a buffet at $28 USD. Now please understand it was a great buffet, but most of us felt there should have been a way to just order coffee and toast or something smaller. The same was true for dinner.
 
One evening four of us went to a local Korean restaurant where dinner for the four of us including drinks came to only $40USD. The food was awesome and since we were the only non-Koreans in the place the owner took special care of us.
 
We made the mistake of going back to the hotel for coffee and desert in the bar in the lobby of the hotel. We had 3 regular coffees – 1 tea – 3 pieces of cake for a total cost of $60. The coffee was $12 each!!!!
 
So I recommend that you go to the local restaurants. You will have great food, meet nice people, and save tons of money.
 
While I’m speaking of nice people let me say unequivocally that I have never met nicer, kinder and more polite people than the Koreans in all my travels. They are a wondrous people to get to know.
 
Now for my highlight spots on the island………..
 
Sunrise Peak
 
Get up early and climb to the top. It is a steep hike, but there is a nice walkway and stairs all the way to the top of the Peak. You can also enjoy the ocean views without making that climb. It is a beautiful area.
 
Hallim Park
 
Hallim Park was finished in 1971 and built from barren land.
 
In the park:
 
• Jeju Stone and Bonsai Garden
• Palm Tree Road
• Hyeopjae & Ssangyong Lava Tube Caves
• Jae-Am Folk Village
• Bird Garden
• Jae-Am Stone Exhibit Hall
• Water Garden
• Subtropical Botanic Garden
 
Take your time and spend many hours wandering through everything, and go down into the lava tube caves. Have lunch in the Folk Village. Enjoy all the wonderful flowers throughout the entire park.
 
If you are lucky there will be bus loads of Korean schoolchildren to visit with as you will see from my photos.
 
 
Spirited Garden
 
Self proclaimed as the most exquisite garden in the world, and I certainly would not argue that point after visiting the garden.
 
Built by Mr. Bum-young Sum from desolate wasteland the garden will inspire you to better understand nature and enlighten you to realize just how special nature is.
 
I truly believe Mr. Bum-young Sum is one of the foremost bonsai artists in the world.
 
Jeju-Do Folklore & Natural History Museum
 
This is where you can really get the sense and reality of Jeju Island and its past where the folk cultures and the natural environments of Jeju are vividly in sight.
 
The Five Day Marketplace
 
All I can say is WOW! This is many blocks long where all types of fresh fish, seafood, produce, flowers, condiments etc. are for sale. No supermarkets here – fresh is the main ingredient in Korean cooking. Take a look at the photos and you will understand.
 
There are many more places and things to see than I can list here in this article, but you can find out more at www.jeju.go.kr/ .
 
I feel that irrespective of the distance, travel to South Korea and Jeju Island are well worth the trip.
 
Please take the time to enjoy the photos of this wonderful place.
 
I also wish to express my appreciation for the help and courtesies extended to me by:
 
• The Self Governing Province of Jeju Island
• Austin Huh, New Aju Tours, 1241-18, 3-Do,1-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-Do, S. Korea 69031. Phone # 81-64-757-7771-2
 
Peter A Distefano
Editor In Chief
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MAGICAL KENYA   Doc.
  MAGICAL KENYA
A Journey Into The Past
By: Peter A Distefano, Editor In Chief
World Traveler News
 

The words ‘Magical’ – ‘Different’ – ‘Wild’ used by the Kenya Tourism people only partially describes the experiences you will have when visiting this wonderful and amazing country.
 
Kenya is in Eastern Africa bordering the Indian Ocean, between Tanzania and Somalia. It has a population of around 35,000,000 people. Kiswahili is the official language of Kenya but there are also many indigenous languages spoken by various tribes.
 
Crime is very low and overall Kenya is considered a safe place to travel. Weather and temperatures vary by area and season, but you will typically find the weather warm and mild.
 
My affiliate organization, Tour & Travel Organizers Ltd. (an American Travel Agency), was fortunate enough to be one of the participants invited to visit Kenya by the Kenya Tourism Bureau (KTB) for a travel agents Fam trip.
 
The purpose of the trip was to familiarize American travel agents with all that Kenya has to offer so we could bring that information back home and promote Kenya to our clientele.
 
The Fam trip was sponsored by many Kenya Tour Operators with each offering different tours and scenarios from walking tours, adventure tours thru luxury tours.
 
All of the tours were for 7 days, but if you are going to go to Kenya allow yourself at least 12-14 days minimum so you can achieve the full experience Kenya has to offer.
 
High season is July thru September and this is when the herd migration returns from the Serengeti plains to the Maasai Mara. To be able to view this migration of thousands and thousands of wildebeests and other animals making their way back to the Mara is an unforgettable event. Also this is the season when mosquito activity is at its least bothersome.
 
Although we were in Kenya in May which is still the tail end of the Long Rains when mosquito activity is at its highest, I did not receive one single bite the entire time I was in Kenya …. Others in our group were not quite as lucky – so insect repellant with Deet is highly recommended as well as sunscreen for the hot Kenya sun.
Coming from the United States to Kenya is relatively easy with many air carriers serving that region of the world. Currently I do not know of any non-stop flights from the USA direct to Kenya so you will definitely change planes at least once.
 
I flew from San Francisco to Amsterdam (10.5 hrs) and then Amsterdam to Nairobi (8 hrs). Going to Nairobi I spent an overnight in Amsterdam and on the return had a 5 hour layover at the Amsterdam airport.
 
Yes it is a long time on an airplane, but it is well worth it which I am sure you will agree after spending time in Kenya.
 
With all the tour operators sponsoring the trip it was very hard to try to choose which one to go with, but we were lucky enough to get our first choice which was Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) – one of the largest tour operators in the world.
 
Upon arrival in Kenya I was met at the airport by two A&K representatives, Fiona and Francis, to take me to the hotel (The Norfolk) in Nairobi.
 
As we drove into Nairobi, Francis turned and asked me if I had a brother named John who was in Kenya in the Peace Corps in the 70’s. I answered yes and was totally surprised to find that Francis had known him.
 
Yes it is a very small world!
 
At 106 years old, The Norfolk Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Kenya. Well maintained with an impeccable staff, beautifully groomed grounds and nicely appointed rooms I would recommend The Norfolk for any traveler coming to Nairobi.
 
The following evening the KTB hosted a welcome cocktail party and imparted some basic information to all the travel agents present as well as allowing us the opportunity to meet most of the sponsoring tour operators.
 
Our small group of 9 under the care of one of the most professional safari guides in the business, John Niva of A&K, left Nairobi on a Kenya Air Twin Otter 15 seat plane for our flight to our first Game Resort at Elsa’s Kopje (pronounced Copy).
 
It is important to note that when planning for this type of trip you will be limited to one piece of luggage of no more than 32 lbs along with a small carry-on.
 
The baggage and weight capacity of these smaller planes is very limited. Typically though you can store a bag at your hotel in Nairobi until you return which is exactly what most of us did.
 
I will discuss later in this article what we recommend you bring to wear and to use to take photos.
Upon arrival at the small airstrip we were met by 2 Safari vehicles and driver-guides and made our way to Elsa’s Kopje.
 
It was an amazing site on that short drive to Elsa’s to come across a herd of elephants with their young, a mother giraffe and her baby and various antelopes and gazelles.
 
What a way to start a Safari!
 
Elsa’s Kopje is situated in the Meru National Park and in the area where George and Joy Adamson released Elsa the lioness into the wild (Born Free – the movie).
 
Elsa’s Kopje is one of Kenya’s best kept secrets – a hidden jewel in this untamed wilderness of the Meru. The lodge itself is built on the site of George Adamson’s first campsite.
 
Invisible to the eye as you approach, the lodge offers a stunning 360 degree view over Meru’s landscape of Giant Baobabs, Doum Palms and hot Bushland. It is the home of the Beisa Oryx, Grevy’s Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Lesser Kudu, as well as large herds of elephants, prides of Lion and Cheetah and Leopard.
 
Elsa’s Kopje offers intimate private cottages with en-suite bathrooms and shower. Every cottage has a stunning view, generous double or twin beds romantically swathed in netting.
 
Children are welcome and a family cottage set away from the other rooms gives young guests space to have fun.
 
The meals prepared for us at Elsa’s Kopje were tasty and good enough that we were asking for recipes to take home.
 
The managers, Anthony Childs and Emma Ayton (soon to be married) were both born and raised in Kenya. They have worked in wildlife from an early age; being involved with the Kenya Wildlife Service and NGO’s, working with elephants, community projects and anti-poaching in both the Shimba Hills and Tsavo National Parks. Anthony is one of East Africa’s leading snake authorities and is involved in writing a comprehensive book on the snakes of Kenya.
 
They are both charming people and have an innumerable wealth of information.
 
At Elsa’s we did both morning and evening safari game drives with their excellent driver guides. We also did a couple of sundowner stops to watch the sun go down while having some wine, beer, soda and snacks.
 
One sundowner was atop a large outcropping apparently where Elsa used to hang out.
One morning a pride of lions decided to take up residence right next to Elsa’s Kopje, and throughout the night you could hear them roar…..wonderful to me – worrisome to others in our group, but staff members patrolled at night to assure our complete safety.
 

From Elsa’s Kopje we flew a short flight to the Maasai Mara Game Reserve and then were driven to Olonana Luxury Camp which is located on the banks of the Mara River.
 
This is a very private and luxurious camp which comprises just 12 spacious and airy en-suite accommodation tents (all with 2 queen size beds, floor to ceiling mosquito net ‘windows’ and verandah).
 
As I sat on my veranda I watched the Hippo’s in the water not 10 feet away from me, and was delightfully awakened in the morning to their snorting and noise.
 
Olonana offered us the usual morning and evening game rides on the Mara where we had the opportunity to see large herds of gazelles, antelopes, wart hogs, Hippo’s, crocodile, birds, snakes, giraffe’s and so much more (see the gallery of photos from Kenya).
 
Right near the Olonana camp was a Maasai homestead that we had the wonderful opportunity to visit.
 
The Maasai people (as well as most Kenyan’s) are a very friendly people whose wealth is based on the number of cattle they own. The cattle are never eaten but their milk and blood is used by the Maasai people.
 
They live simply as they always have in huts made from cow dung which the women build. For every ten cows a Maasai man owns he can have a wife. When he has enough cows and is ready for the second wife – the first wife will chose his second wife …. The second chooses the third and so on.
 
The Maasai women make some beautiful hand-crafts which, of course, we all had to purchase. The hard part was trying to decide which pieces to choose from – and how you were going to fit them into your suitcase.
 
In addition to many beaded bracelets and pendants I purchased, I also purchased a traditional Maasai knife (about 24” long and a wooden bludgeon.
 
I wondered how the Transportation Safety Administration (TSA) would handle that in my luggage, but they passed it through fine.
 
Some of the members on our tour took advantage of an optional hot air balloon ride over the Mara. Since this was not the migration period I opted not to take this ride. The travel agents who did take the ride said it was fantastic.
 
The ability to be able to see these wild animals in their natural habitat – roaming free and living their lives as nature intended was uplifting.
 
Our next plane ride took us to the Shompole Camp which is in the South-Eastern area of Kenya near the Tanzanian border near Lake Natron.
 
Shompole is located on the edge of the Nguruman Escarpment overlooking the Great Rift Valley.
 
Shompole is 120km south of Nairobi on a 35,000 acre core Conservancy, surrounded by 140,000 acres of Shompole Group Ranch, which provides a dispersal area for wildlife as well as a buffer zone.
 
As with the previous camps, Shompole proved to be the newest and most luxurious of them.
 
Free flowing and open air Cabins with views from every cabin that were breathtaking. Each cabin had its own plunge pool which was a wonderful way to cool off while drinking a Tusker Beer and watching the view.
 
An evening game drive proved to be an amazing journey, and I was able to capture photos of some rarely seen animals like the Aardwolf and the African Wildcat as well as watching and photographing a lion pride on the hunt.
 
Food, once again, was fantastic and the service amazing.
 
At each of the camps we were given the opportunity to choose our wake-up time.
 
Our alarm clocks were staff members who also brought us our choice of coffee, tea or hot chocolate and cookies at wake-up time.
 
Each camp had Maasai security at night assuring the wildlife stayed away from our cabins – and in some of the camps each person had a radio to call for anything if they needed it and a flashlight for after the generators were shut off.
 
I can only say that Abercrombie & Kent Kenya provided our group with a most wonderful and fantastic adventure, placing us at the best of the best camps and assuring we had the most professional and caring guides.
 
I’m sure some of the other groups with other tour operators also had wonderful tours, but I don’t know how they could have been any better than what Abercrombie & Kent provided for our group.
Abercrombie & Kent will certainly be at the top of our list for Kenya Tour Operators for the clientele Tour & Travel Organizers Ltd. Serves.
 
In a meeting the last day of our trip we had the opportunity to learn and understand all that Kenya is doing to protect these animals.
 
Poachers are given an automatic seven year prison sentence when caught, and the rangers have the authority to shoot and kill poachers if an animal or the Rangers are in danger.
 
We saw the wildlife ranger’s aircraft over the various reserves keeping watch over this treasure of wildlife.
 
The Kenya Wildlife Service has prepared and is implementing a Strategic Plan to save, conserve and preserve Kenya’s wildlife population.
 
The Kenya Tourism Federation {KTF} (which is comprised of tour operators, hotelkeepers, travel agents, air operators and ecotourism Kenya) has worked very hard in addressing security related issues by creating the Safety and Communication Centre.
 
The Centre is a 24 hour coordination point with the following objectives:
 
· A countrywide communication network for tourism operatives report and record any emergencies that might occur such as sickness or accident.
· A tourist emergency command and control centre
· Professional staff to assist tourists
· A source of information on prevailing conditions in any intended destination
· A coordination Centre between the tourism industry and emergency providors including the Kenya Police, Kenya Wildlife Service, Flying Doctors/AMREF
· A monitoring unit for reported and non-reported incidents involving tourism
 
There was not one time in all of our travels throughout Kenya on this trip that I felt in danger or unsafe.
 
Even in the big city of Nairobi I felt the warmth and helpfulness of the people of Kenya.
 
That is not to say there aren’t some standard traveling rules you should adhere to when traveling ‘anywhere’ – even in the United States - such as not wearing expensive jewelry, flashing your money, not watching your purse or wallet, etc..
 
The finale of the trip was a Gala dinner and entertainment event at the Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi that evening after the workshop.
 
Now please don’t misunderstand – No wild game was eaten at the Carnivore. As stated previously it is illegal to kill and eat wild game in Kenya.
 
There was pre-dinner entertainment at the cocktail party outdoors before dinner with Kenyan dancers, and then we went into a huge tent for a dinner that boggled the mind in its enormity.
 
While continuous entertainment went on during dinner on-stage, waiters appeared with large skewers of barbequed meats of Beef, Pork, Lamb, Chicken, Sausages, Crocodile, Ostrich and more as they kept coming back and slicing more off as you wanted it.
 
Then the dancing started as the dessert showed up and everyone was up on stage having the time of their life.
 
It was a fitting ending to a marvelous trip.
 
The next day I was due to leave in the evening for home so I took advantage of the day to visit the orphaned elephant and rhino rescue as well as visiting the Rothschild Giraffe Sanctuary.
 
As the A&K representative, Gathoni, drove me to the airport I was filled with a combination of sadness that I was leaving, but also with awe and wonder of a country I fell in Love with and certainly must return to.
 
I met new people, saw new cultures and made new friends – all of which I will hold forever in my heart.
 
I saw the face of the jungle and it smiled at me.
 
I saw the face of the people and it made my heart sing with joy.
 
MAGICAL KENYA
Invigorates your mind
Stirs your soul to dance
Awakens your spirit
 
PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO REVIEW THE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THIS TRIP
 
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON TRIPS AND TOURS OF KENYA PLEASE CONTACT TOUR & TRAVEL ORGANIZERS LTD – A CERTIFIED KENYA MASTER KATS TRAVEL AGENCY AT
www.tour-travel-organizers.travel (Website)
info@tour-travel-organizers.travel (Email)
+1-925-363-0052 Tel +1-925-363-0053 Fax
=============================================================
We would like to express our thanks and great appreciation to the Kenya Tourist Board, The Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife and all the sponsors of the American Travel Agents Fam trip for their invitation, help, information, courtesy and warmth.
 
BASIC SAFARI TIPS FOR TRAVELERS
Insect Repellant with 30% Deet
Sunscreen Lotion
Neutral Color Clothing (tan)
Cotton or breathable fabrics
Quick Drying undergarments – ladies undergarments must be
hand washed by yourself
A Camera with at least a telephoto zoom to 200mm – plenty of film or memory cards and batteries
Your Tour operator will also give you excellent clothing and accessory information
 
A SWAHILI PRIMER
Swahili is the official language of Kenya
Jambo = Hello
Kwaheri = Goodbye
Habari? = How Are You?
Mzuri = Fine
Asante = Thank You
Ndiyo = Yes
Hapana = No
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A VISIT TO THE CZECH REPUBLIC   Doc.
  A VISIT TO THE CZECH REPUBLIC
 
I had the opportunity to visit the Czech Republic a few weeks ago with the American Society of Travel Agents International Destination Expo which was hosted by Prague.
 
The purpose of the ASTA International Destination Expo (ASTA IDE) was to learn about the many countries, especially the Czech Republic, in Eastern Europe.
 
Not only did we participate in the many Destination Specialist Seminars on the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Bulgaria, Poland, etc. but we had the wonderful opportunity to tour and visit some interesting spots in the Czech Republic.
 
The first 2 days after arriving, I took a tour to visit Hluboka Castle and the UNESCO listed village of Holasovice with a short visit to Ceska Budjovice and then on to Cesky Krumlov.
 
We stayed over night in Cesky Krumlov where we stayed at a small boutique hotel, U Mesta Vidne and were treated to a delightful and tasty dinner at a local restaurant including live music. After the dinner we were treated to a medieval performance by 2 local men, and during the performance I and one of the other Travel Agents present were brought in and participated in that performance.
 
I would suggest that an overnight stay in Cesky Krumlov is a must just so you can spend some time shopping in the little shops, but especially so you can see and photograph the castle at night when it is lit up by spotlights.
 
I found some wonderful buys on garnet and gold jewelry.
 
The castle in Krumlovy has only one of only two of fully restored Baroque Theaters in Europe which is quite unique. The other unique distinction of the Castle in Krumlovy is that it is the second largest Czech Castle in the Czech Republic.
 
The largest is the Prague Castle where we were treated to a sumptuous banquet later that week.
 
Upon return to Prague, the ASTA IDE started with seminars, trade shows, one-on-one interviews with various country tourism personnel.
 
The first evening for the Grand Opening, the Ambassador Hotel Group sponsored a phenomenal banquet at the Prague Castle with every type of appetizer, drink, food and desert imaginable.
 
Understand that there were 1,000+ people participating and we never ran out of food.
 
Another memorable evening was the “Top Hotel” sponsored banquet called ‘A Gastronomic Walk through the Czech Country’ which featured regional food from every region of the Czech Republic.
 
The final evening was a culinary delight sponsored by next years host country, Korea. Which was served in style and we were treated to a fantastic live performance by Korean musicians prior to the dinner and then Korean music during dinner.
 
There were many hotels that provided the participants with special rates during the IDE. I elected to stay at the Hotel Adria right on Wenceslaus Square in the heart of downtown Prague. I had a very comfortable junior suite facing the square yet it was absolutely silent from outside noise. As is typical it included a buffet breakfast which was very nice – except for the juice which seemed a little watered down for my taste.
 
There were other various tours during the IDE that we participated in which gave us some special insight into the Czech Country as well as Prague itself.
 
This was not my first visit to Prague, and it certainly will not be my last. I met new people and made some wonderful new friends that I hope to see next year in Korea – if not before.
 
Be sure to see the photos in the Gallery Section.
 
You should add it to your ‘places to visit’, and let our sister company, Tour & Travel Organizers help you plan and book any of your trips. Just go to www.tour-travel-organizers.travel to begin your travel bookings and rental car bookings. Also note that many European Union countries are now requiring each visitor carry $30,000 Travel Medical Coverage to enter their country. Tour and Travel Organizers Ltd can provide you with that coverage and proof.
 
Next year the ASTA IDE will be held at Jenju Island in the country of Korea. I have already signed up for the trip, and cannot wait for the time to go.
 
Peter A Distefano
Editor In Chief
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Kauai Trip APRIL 2005   .doc
  KAUAI – THE GARDEN ISLAND
 
We just returned from a visit to the magnificent island of Kauai in Hawaii during the month of April.
 
Kauai is called the Garden Island due to its lush tropical vegetation, flowers, fruit, coffee and Taro. It is also the home of the spot of the most rain in the world at the top of the mountain – thus helping to keep the island lush and green.
 
In an effort to recommend to our readers places to go and things to do on their travel to Kauai we played the tourist – and came home pleasantly surprised and happy.
 
Kauai, as with most of Hawaii is a place to relax and enjoy the gorgeous beaches and lush tropical plants; but as we found there is so much more.
 
On this visit we did a number of things, and here is what we recommend:
 
· The 2.5 hour walking tour through the Allerton Gardens at the National Botanical Gardens. The gardens are absolutely fabulous with every kind of tropical plant and tree imaginable and an excellent guide to explain it all to you. It is an easy walk that almost anyone can do. If you have seen the movie Jurassic Park you will even get to stand under the tree where the young girl found the dinosaur eggs. Although we did not do the Self-Guided tour through the McBryde Garden, from what we saw of it that would also be well worth doing. During the tour you will learn that the majority of the island’s greenery is not native but was brought to the island by various peoples.
 
We rate this as EXCELLENT and a MUST DO tour.
 
· Want to do something different and fun – and still sight-see, then you should do the Hidden Beach Horseback Ride (approx 2.5 hours) with CJM Country Stables in the Poipu area. We not only got to have great fun riding but what views – breathtaking! Their horses are in fine shape and they set you up with a horse to match your experience (from none to expert), and will even provide helmets if you want one. Wear long pants and you must wear closed toe shoes. You get the opportunity to ride in areas normally closed to the public so you get to see sites that the average tourist cannot see. Their guides will also give you information on everything you will be seeing during the tour.
 
We rate this tour as EXCELLENT and recommend it highly.
 
We rate the tour operator CJM Country Stables as 5 stars (our highest rating) and they can be reached at 808-742-6096 – reservations required.
 
 

· If you are in the mood to do something a little more strenuous, but not a real killer, then the Kipu Falls Safari (5-6 hours) by Outfitters Kauai is an excellent choice.
 
You start off by taking an easy downwind 2 person kayak trip on the Hulei’a River, a beautiful and historic jungle stream. After about 2 miles you leave your kayak and take a one mile hike up the valley to a gorgeous area of waterfalls and a swimming hole.
 
You will want to do the easy rope swing out into the swimming hole in preparation for a bigger one later on in the safari, and your guides will explain why you should do it. From there you will hike a little further and climb onto a covered wagon pulled by a John Deere tractor for an interesting and wonderful trip across Kipu Ranch.
 
Once the trailhead is reached there is a short hike down to a waterfall for a nice picnic lunch. After your belly is full the real fun begins as you harness up to do a Zip-Line tour.
 
You harness yourself up and get hooked up to line that runs from a 60’ tower through the trees and across a river at about 35mph. After you get over the shock of stepping off of a 60’ tower the adrenaline rush is amazing as you soar across the river. WOW is all I can say after doing it!
 
From there it is on to Kipu Falls where there are cliffs 18-20’ high where you can jump or rope swing out into the water – or just swim if that’s what you want. Finally a short walk back to the covered wagon to get to the other side of the ranch – a short hike down to the river and a powered Hawaiian canoe takes you back.
 
We rate this tour as AWESOME and think it is worth spending the day doing it.
 
The tour operator, Outfitters Kauai also gets 5 stars. We were impressed and felt they had 3 of the best guides we have come across (Alyssa, Peter, and Gary). Outfitters Kauai can be reached at 808-742-9667 and reservations are required.
 
· For the athletes in the group (like my 2 contributing editors Dan Distefano and Amy Jo Ott who were with me on this trip) there is nothing like the 12.5 hour Napali Coast ocean kayaking adventure through Napali by Sea Kayaks. This is not for the weak at heart or those that can’t handle a full day of ocean kayaking or are prone to seasickness, but if you can do it you will come back raving about the coastal inlets, caves and coves unapproachable by land, and possibly see the elusive monk seal as my contributing editors Dan & Amy Jo did. The adventure includes lunch at Miloli’i beach and a wonderful guide to show you all the wonders along the way. This is an adventure to travel up the Napali coast and see it like the very first Hawaiians did.
 
We rate this adventure as IMPRESSIVE and FUN – if you can physically handle it.
 
The tour operator Napali By Sea Kayaks gets 5 stars hands-down by our editors. Napali By Sea Kayaks can be reached at 808-826-9844 and reservations are required.
 
==========================================================
 
Of course we did some snorkeling along the various beaches in the Poipu area and at the beach in front of the Beach House restaurant. If you are going to do some snorkeling, I would suggest you stop at Hilo Hattie’s store in Lihue and pick up one of the single use underwater cameras for use while you are snorkeling. they cost about $15, and I recommend the one with the flash.
 
We recommend you visit the Kauai Coffee Company Plantation for a look at how coffee is produced as well as getting to taste all the wonderful coffee types available. Of course there are coffee beans available to take home (try the pea berry beans).
 
If you are a first time visitor to Kauai you certainly should take the drive up to Waimea Canyon. It is a natural wonder and the Grand Canyon of Hawaii and a very pleasant drive.
 
Also drive out past Waimea to as far as you can go and you will come to the Polihale State Park. This is a beautiful sandy beach that stretches for miles and is usually uncrowded. Bring a large beach umbrella because there is no place to get into the shade.
 
The nice thing about Kauai is that you can travel from one end to the other in a few hours, and every place you look there is something breathtaking to enjoy.
 
Of course you need to sample the exotic and tasty food of the Hawaiian islands, and we have our favorite places.
 
In the Poipu shopping center a few blocks from the Marriott Waiohai Resort there are some excellent choices for dining as well as shopping. There is even a small store where you can stock up on snacks and drinks.
 
In that shopping center we recommend the Tropical Burger, Puka Dog and Asia Café. Prices are reasonable at each of them, good menu choices, excellent service and food.
 

For a Sunday Brunch there is no place better than the Hilton Hotel Resort.
 
For an enjoyable and memorable evening special meal our favorite is the Plantation House Restaurant at the Plantation House Resort that sits right next to the Marriott Waiohai Resort. The ambiance is fantastic, service is superb, food is as tasty as it is elegant, and a great wine list. The cost is moderate to high but well worth every penny. We usually save it for our last dinner the day before we are to leave to return home.
 
Of course we have to mention Lappert’s Ice Cream which is made on the island, and there is always a flavor calling our name so we have stopped at most of their stores on the island during our travels.
 
There is so much you can do while visiting Kauai that we can only skim past a few to give you ideas … such as: Bicycle Downhill Canyon to Coast – from the top of Waimea Canyon down 12 miles to the coast, All Terrain Vehicle Adventures, Gay & Robinson Sugar Cane Plantation Tours, Enjoy a Hawaiian Luau, Kapa’a History Walking Tour, Golf, Golf & Golf so many clubs available, Helicopter Tours, Hiking, Horseback Riding, Various Kayak Adventures, Mountain Tubing, Movie Tours – over 60 movies have been made on Kauai including Jurassic Park, Museums, Ocean Excursions, Off-Road Adventures, River Boat Cruise, Scuba Diving, Snorkel Adventures, Surfing Lessons, Zodiac Tour, Spa Treatments.
 
Explore the Island of Kauai and its wonderful and friendly people. Marvel at the amazing sunsets and sunrises. Enjoy its serenity and beauty. Listen to your guides on the various trips you take and become immersed into the history and culture of the real Hawaii. See what Captain Cook saw when he first arrived on Kauai!
 
We need to thank all of our wonderful guides on our trips for bringing Kauai to life for us.
 
We would like to also take this opportunity to especially thank Emele Freiberg for his wonderful help in organizing our itinerary and for his insight into this fabulous island.
 
Please take the time to view our photos of Kauai in the Gallery section.
 
As the locals say, “Kauai is the most beautiful of all the Hawaiian Islands – so please go visit Maui!”
 
Peter A Distefano, Editor In Chief
Dan Distefano, Contributing Editor
Amy Jo Ott, Contributing Editor
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THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME BEGINS + CHAPTERS 1 THRU 9   Word Doc.
  This month one of our writers, Jerry Distefano and his wife, are heading off on a "trip of a lifetime" as Jerry stated in his teaser news that follows......
 
"We fly to Rome next tuesday. The first two nights we will be staying in Siena, an old walled town in the heart of the Chianti country (slurp, slurp). Then back to Rome where we are meeting two friends from the USA and spending four days exploring the city of seven hills.
 
We petitioned for an audience with the Pope, but he's as senile as I am.
 
From there, we take the train to Naples, rent a car and drive to Salerno on the Amalfi coast for a night. Then on to Accetura, my ancestral town in Basilicata. I'll be looking for old family members and probably a whole potload of sheep. Two nights at the hotel Sanguliano and then to Sorrento.
 
A night in Napoli and then boarding a ship for a 15 day cruise of the Mediterranean and Aegean seas. From Naples to Catania, Sicily , to Brindisi on Italy's east coast, to Dbrovnik in Croatia.
 
After that, to Athens and a multitude of Greek Isles followed by stops in old Ephesus (what was once Troy) and finally to Istanbul.
 
The ship is small so Ann and I have rowing duties on Mondays and Thursdays!
 
From Turkey we fly to London for an evening with friends and then to Paris for four days of wining and dining and perhaps a museum or two.
 
When we get back I'm sure we will be exhausted, stuffed to the gills and over-graped, but I am also sure we will have many tales to tell."
 
As Jerry emails us with his adventures on this trip we will post them for your enjoyment and information.
 
Jerry stated that if he gets access to photosmart printers he will email us photos as well (except for the ones of Jerry and the sheep!!!) otherwise the photos will follow when they return.
 
STAGE ONE OF THE TRIP
 
Greetings all from Siena - we made it, but we now have a new rule "Jerry does NOT get to plan the first day of travel ever again! We thought the 24 hours to Dunk Island, Australia was bad, but this beat that hands down ....... 26 hours from the USA to our hotel in Siena. Everything wnet smoothly, thank heavens, otherwise we would still be traveling.
 
Siena is a beautiful place, built somewhere in the 1100's or before. It is a walled city with many hills. The Taxi ride to the hotel was quite fun as they roar up and down the streets and around blind corners.
 
The streets are about 25 feet wide with NO sidewalks. We have what you could call a boulevard near our hotel --- about 35 feet wide.
 
The church here is magnificent and very old. This morning we went to the Piazza del Campo which is a huge shell shaped plaza ringed with restaurants and shops.
 
After a short time there we could hear the distant sound of thunder. It became louder and nearer so we decided to duck into a cafe for a glass of vino - or whatever - most likely not the whatever. It proceeded to pour, but we were tucked inside with wine and a menu so what more could we ask for.
 
Tomorrow we are off to Rome!
 
Arividerci - next chapter soon;
 
STAGE TWO OF THE TRIP
 
Greetings from Roma. We made it here after a much less strenuous train ride (it helps to have done it once before). However, carting all the luggage is definitely a pain. Fortunately we only have to take the train once more to Naples on Monday.
 
One thing we did learn - if a really nice looking train is sitting at the track and you climb aboard be sure to check if it says EuroStar. If it does you need a reservation. This is basically 'no problemo' because half way through the trip you find this out and at that point you have to pay an extra 16 Euros. No one checks you as you board the train so you're on your own. They don't yell at you though - - just politely tell you to cough up some more money.
 
Once in Rome we made it to our hotel and found that our friends had checked in 10 minutes earlier.
 
We went out for a walkking tour of the area and became darker and darker. Soon the skies opened and it poured ..... each couple had an umbrella but they were barely sufficient to keep us dry so we were completely soaked by the time we got back to our rooms. The rain was warm but we were really wet. After a couple of hours the rain stopped and once again it was quite nice, but we definitely seem to have hit the rainy season.
 
We had dinner last night at a lovely roof top restaurant (with cover) and had a fabulous meal served by the cutest little waiter guy you ever wanted to see. Dinner was pretty darn good too. I felt that we had landed in a place where the "beautiful people' of Rome frequent - -there were some interesting looking people at the restaurant, tres chic!
 
The following day it was off to the Vatican for a little religion (actually a lot of religion). The Vatican is huge and magnificent. Jerome wanted to go to confessions, but I told him we didn't have that much time! Besides all the priest ran away when they saw him coming.
 
We did not make it into the Sistine Chapel because on Saturday the lines were longer than for the rides at Disneyland plus they are only open a half-day on Saturndays.
 
Tomorrow it's off to the Forum and the Colliseum but this time we have engaged a private tour. Our friend, John, is gimpier than I am so we are taking the "auto route".
 
Speaking of John .... He is on Vioxx for an arthritic hip but somehow managed to leave his Vioxx in London. He was pretty despondent, so I offered him some of my Relafen thinking it might help ..... and he ended up having the best nights sleep he has had in quite a while.
 
So today we walked over to a Farmacia, handed them the generic name of my pill bottle, and they handed him 30 days worth for $25! Just like that --- how come in America we make everything so complicated???
 
Monday it is off to Napoli to pick up the car, and then to the Amalfi coast and eventually to Accetura where we expect to find hundreds of little "Jerry's" running around --- pray for us all!!!
 
STAGE THREE OF THE TRIP
 
Well here we are in Napoli. This is one frenzied City which makes New York look a lot like a sleepy little country village - with Rome only slightly more active.
 
A lot has happened since we last checked in because we have been a lot of different places that have no internet access so here goes.
 
Our last day in Rome we toured in a very nice Mercedes driven by 'Bruna' (a lovely Canadian born - Italian woman).
She took us to the Coliseum, The Forum, The Spanish Steps, The Trevi Fountain, The Parthenon and a little church called 'The Mouth of the Truth'. The legend is that if you put your hand in her mouth and it isn't bitten off you are an honest person.
 
We all survived with our appendages intact - so I'm not sure if the legend is true or not!
 
This is a perfect way to tour and with Bruna's special license she could drive right up to most sites.
 
With less walking it makes for a much less stressful way to sightsee.
 
(For those who may be wondering, my leg (Ann's) has suddenly quit complaining. I told Jerry this must be what happens when an Agnostic visits the Vatican - a healing happens in hopes of making a believer out of you).
 
The follwing day we took off from Rome and caught the train to Naples to pick up our rental car.
 
We picked up the car and were on our way out of Naples with Jerry at the wheel. This is no small feat - traffic, cars, buses, trucks, motorcycles, pedestrians all go every which way whenever they feel like it.
 
After we turned the car back in we realized that with all this mass confusion we had only seen one fender bender - Amazing!
 
After a few fits and starts and one inadvertent pass through Pompeii, we found the raod to Salerno were on our way to the Amalfi coast.
 
This must be where they filmed all the James Bond, Cary Grant & Audrey Hepburn movies with hairpin curve after hairpin curve. Plus streets barely wide enough for two cars, people walking along the streets since there were no sidewalks - Wild but absolutely beautiful.
 
We found a nice decent little hotel along the road just out of town a bit.
 
The scenery is spectacular and the Amalfi Coast deserves all the praise it gets with the Sun shining and the ocean a spectacular blue.
 
What is truly fascinating about most of Italy is the use of the land - no matter where we have been - big cities, little ones, hillside resort areas, wherever - every inch is used. wherever there is a vacant spot someone has something planted there - grapes, olive and citrus trees, vegetables and more - you name it they grow it. If it is a steep hillside they just terrace it so it can be planted.
 
After a leisurely breakfast in Amalfi, we started on our big adventure to Jerry's ancestral village to Accetura.
 
STAGE FOUR OF THE TRIP
 
So here we go again on the curvy roads until we get to the A3 and 477 which are fairly straight directly across Italy for about 100 miles. It is in the Basilicata region nearer the Aegean sea.
 
Just as we are getting really comfortable in our driving we see the sign to Accetura and we are off on another winding road into the mountains. Its about 22km of beautiful mountain scenery.
 
About 16km into the drive we catch a glimpse of this incredible town perched on top of a rock with the sun glistening on it. The town was far larger than we had heard and appeared to sprout right out of the stone of the mountain.
 
We gradually wound our way to the town and found our hotel - which was closed!!! Two men happened to walk by and spoke a little English and told us that the Chef was at his ristorante about 2km out of town.
 
We chose the right way to go and found this little garden restaurant - very simple, almost empty and very dark.
 
We walked in and were greeted by a young man who seemed to know who were were and explained that he was Massimo II and that Massimo I was in 'repose' but that he would take care of us.
 
I thought he meant the poor guy was dead, and thats why the hotel was closed, but fortunately it just meant he was away on vacation.
 
Massimo II served us a lovely lunch and then sent us back to the hotel where Francisco was waiting to show us our rooms which were large with beautiful bathrooms and marble floors and very dark and quiet.
 
Gradually we realized that we were the only guests in the hotel, and with too many thoughts of Psycho I got a little nervous, but everyone else felt right at home and comfortable....so I figured I should go with the flow and just relaxed.
 
Jerry, of course, was all fired up to find his ancestral relatives ...... and that is the next stage of our story to follow.
 
STAGE FIVE OF THE TRIP
 
As soon as we were settled in, Jerry was off on a fast clip to see who he could talk to at the City Hall we passed on the way into town.
 
When we walked in we were greeted by several people, none of whom spoke much English, but through gestures and phrase books and writing down family names we did manage to communicate.
 
We were in the City Hall only about 20 minutes before we realize that Jerry is a cousin of two of the guys who worked there - being realted on his paternal grandmother's side of the family.
 
Of course there was much back-slapping and picture taking, and we promised to come back the following day.
 
No sooner did we hit the street when we are approached by two men - - one older - - who asks if we are 'Paradiso'? It turnsout he is realted as well!
 
Accetura is a very small town and news travels fast so we were the object of lots of staring every time we walked around town.
 
Accetura is a tightly packed town of about 2,000 people. The streets are very narrow and all stone.
 
apparently Accetura is a male dominated culture with very few women visible. Even in the evening when the square comes alive and the stores are open all you find are the men sitting around talking or playing cards. You might see a few children - but no women.
 
Massimo II took excellent care of us while we stayed at his hotel, and when we check out we pay 156 euros (about $180 USD) for two nights lodging and six meals. We paid 25 euros extra for 4 deserts and all our drinks - - and anyone who has ever drank with the Distefano bunch knows what a bargain that was!!!!
 
Jerry was very sad to leave Accetura, and actually thought he might want to come back and live there. I told him that if he does he would be coming alone - this is not the place for a modern woman (Ann is not the type to unseen and especially unheard).
 
Our next stop was a little past the town of Sorrento - more curves and more hillside coastal towns. Our hotel was near the beach.
 
Beauty is just part of Italy - it's everywhere.
 
We have arrived in Naples tonight and we board the ship tomorrow.
 
I'm glad we went to Accetura because it gave us a glimpse of Italy that few ever see. Accetura is a very remote town in the center of the Gallipoli National Park which is the largest forest in Europe. It feels like you stepped back in time when you are there.
 
our next port of call when we leave on the ship from Naples will be Sicily.
 
STAGE SIX OF THE TRIP
 
Well we escaped unscathed from Naples, nut I would not recommend anyone visit Naples.
 
We were staying near the train station (which was probably not our best choice), and the hotel door was always locked so you had to ring the bell to get in!
 
Saturday we boarded our ship, The Minerva II (Massimo II / Minerva II - do you see a pattern going on here?) and we were delightfully pleased with the ship - nicely done.
 
She holds about 600 passengers, and our room was wonderful and comfortable with a nice balcony on the port side of the boat.
 
Last night as we sailed past Stromboli Island (which is an active volcano) we were able to watch the glow and view the almost full moon. It was really a stunning sight.
 
Whe we woke up this morning we had arrived in Catania, Sicily.
 
Our excursion today was to Taoromina in sicily. What a spectacular town situated high on a mountain top and beautifully maintained with lots of shops.
 
I could have spent lots of money there, but I forgot my credit card ....... How could I do that??? Of course Jerry wasn't too terribly disappointed about that though.
 
At this point on our trip we all agree that Sicily is at the top of our list for a return visit.
 
The Minerva II is a lovely ship with four different restaurants. The food is very good - some better than others - but overall the quality was superb.
 
Of course the ship was filled with 'fossils, and even though this trip was to celebrate the 60th birthdays of 3 of us --- we still feel incredibly young. We just have to be very careful we don't knock over one of the old coots because they aren't very stable. We determined that canes outnumber running shoes 50 to 1.
 
tonight we set sail for Brindisi and should dock late tomorrow morning .... so we can finally sleep in and not run off on an early morning excursion.
 
The ship also has a spa and exercise room ---- not for me though!
 
After Brindisi we are of to Croatia, and that will be in our next chapter.
 
STAGE 7 OF THE TRIP
 
Well here I am in an internet shop in the City of Durbrovnik, Croatia where we purchased an hour of time fror 30 kuna ($4.50 USD) which is quite a bargain from the ship.
 
Using computers in various parts of the world can be exasperating because the keyboards are different. Here is Croatia the y's are in a different spot than in the USA - I guess because y's are used more than z's so they are switched from our keybards.
 
Yesterday we spent in Brindis which is in the heel of Siciily. It is a fairly industrial city with a nice seaport. Our ship was quite the attraction which caused a pararde of cars and looky loos all day long.
 
I took a tour to Lecce which was about 40 miles from Brindisi which had severeal ancient churches and was quite interesting.
 
Only one problem with cities in the Mediterranean --- they all take siestas in the afternoon --- so no shops are open. This also keeps Jerry a very happy man since my shopping is kept to a minimum!
 
Last night we sailed to Dubrovnik (about 223Km) and arrived here at 6:30am. The moon was full and was still out glowing pink onto this small town nestled up against a hill with its stucco and red-tile roofed houses and beautiful blue sea and green trees.
 
To say it was breasthtaking is a vast understatement.
 
We had a quick breakfast and left for our city-wall walking tour. Dubrovink is a walled city surrounded by a fortification (a wall) that is 6 metres thick in some spots - 2 Km long and has hundred of steps.
 
I was glad we did this in the morning when it was cool as it gets quite warm in the afternoon.
 
The town was heavily damaged during the last recent conflict here, but they have done a wonderful job rebuilding and currently looks relatively unscathed with many new tile roofs.
 
Since many other tourist boats stop here I understand that Dubrovnik does NOT have a siesta time, and my credit cards are warmed up and ready so the economy of Dubrovnik is in for a boost ......and Jerry's smile is in for a downturn.
 
The weather overall on our trip has been a little bit of everything - some showers now and then - a few night son the bat we were entertained by lightning - very pleasant temperatures so we have never been cold - and today it is in the low 70's without a cloud in the sky - great for me and Jerry will only need one layer of extra clothing so I think we will both be happy.
 
We are off the Korfu in Greece tonight and the next stage of out trip.
 
STAGE 8 OF THE TRIP
 
We went from Dubrovnik to Korfu which is a lovely island and we took a bus tour around the island - stopping at verious spots to do shopping. I bought a beautiful tablecloth, some local Ouzo and local olives.
 
In one of the local cafes where I had the most unique and most awesome tasting delight I have ever had....."Honey Yogurt". It is plain yogurt spread with Thyme Honey on top of it. The yogurt was unbelievably smooth (like soft ice cream) but solky smooth. This will be one of those ffod experiences I will dream about forever - just like the chees cart in Chalon.
 
From Korfur we went to Pylos, a small fishing village on the Peloponesian coast.
 
Jerry toured the Navaronni Bay war memorial. Thisis where Greece finally gained independence in 1829. Jerry stated that he loved the tour except that the excursion boat seemed less than safe because the fllor of the boat kept cracking and creaking. He survived so I guess it was stronger than he thought.
 
I (Ann) went to Mythone, an ancient fortification that has housed the Greeks, Venetians, the Turks, and even the Christians at various times --- and who knows who else! ---- which adds to its flavor. Greece is fascinating. The 'new' fortresses were built around 1500 so it is imposible to feel too old around here.
 
Today we did the Acropolis and the PArthenon. It was quite a trek to the tops, but we had a superb guide who was full of information. Even though much of it has been carried away over the years (we were told many are in the British museums).
 
The weather here is in the low 80's and very balmy at night.
 
Our ship, The Minerva II, is promarily made up of Indonesian and Russian staff and quite British in its way. The Indonesian crew entertained us one night with a native ceremony which was quite fun.
 
We understand that 200 Americans are joining the ship tomight and it will be interestesting to see how that changes the dyamics on the ship.
 
STAGE 9 OF THE TRIP
 
Over the last two days we have been seeing the Greece we all envision in our minds - beautiful white-washed buildings gleaming in the sun all with brightly colored doors and shutters (many Greek Blue but also many other colors as well). It is just a stunning vision.
 
We werein Delos and Mykonos yesterday - Delos being a deserted island that was a thriving marketplace over 2500 years ago. It has been ruled by just about everybody except the Americans over the years (Don't tell George Bush please), but it still has an amazing amount of artifacts and building remnants. You are allowed to just wander around the island where you can see the remains of shops, houses, temples, etc..
 
Some of the houses were over 5,000 square feet with 2 and sometimes 3 stories - - of course now only the first floor is left. There are loads of colums, a theatre with nice marble benches with curved backs no less!
 
From Delos we sailed to Mykonos which is another Aegean island. Mykonos is a maze of streets with restaurants and shops everywher you looked.
 
Jerry was on the hunt for goat and since we were there for the evening we did a thorough search and finally found a restaurant offering goat - - both roasted and Billy (really)!, so we made reservations for eight of us and then wandered the town some more. We almost felt like we needed to leave a trail of bread crumbs to find our way back, but when it comes to food and wine this is a group that perseveres - Fortunately!
 
It was a fabulous meal consisting of Dolmathes, Fired Feta that was awesome, stuffed zucchini, avocado salad (with the biggest avacado I have ever seen) ---- and that was only the appetizers.
 
Jerry and I both had Billy Goat (they were out of raosted goat) and it was absolutely wonderful having been braised in a sumptious sauce. Everyone had something different so, as you might suspect, there was a lot of tasting going on at the table.
 
It ptobably goes without saying that a lot (maybe more than a lot) of local wine was also consumed. Since I'm (Ann) the only white wine drinker I got my own bottle which I took what was left back to the boat (mine - mine).
 
We topped the dinner off with some fantastic deserts, and can truthfuly say that this was one of the best meals of the trip so far. We ate outside and watched the passers-by - it was such a lovely evening.
 
Today we set sail for Santorini. The winds have kicked up so it was a little difficult loading us into the tenders to get to the quay. The ship is anchored out so it sways with the wind - making it quite a challenge for the tender driver to catch it.
 
Santorini is 'another' beautiful island in the Adriatic with the city perched on the top of a high hillside that falls down into the the caldron of an old volcano. You reach this point by way of a cable car that goes straight up the hillside. Of course there are other options .... you can walk (not Jerry and Ann - but you) or you could also take a burro which also doesn't sound like that much fun either.
 
The town is filled with shops and stunnign views. We are ready to plop ourselves down - taste a litte wine and relax until we have to catch the tender back to our ship.
 
Tomorrow it is on to Turkey where I know I will have to keep a sharp eye on Jerry who is gearing up to find a harem of belly dancers!
 
More to come soon;
 
Jerry and Ann (THE WANDERERS)
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The Villages of Germany - Odenwald Region   Word Doc.
  The Villages of Germany - Odenwald Region
Peter A. Distefano, Editor In Chief
 
See pictures of Germany in the Gallery
 
Visiting Germany can be very exciting especially if you are brave enough to get out of the big cities and into the small villages and countryside.
 
People are very friendly and most speak a little English even in the rural areas.
 
I have fallen in love with the Odenwald region in the Hessen area of Germany - about 1 1/4 hours from Frankfurt, but there are so many small village areas throughout Germany that I'm anxious to see many more.
 
Read on to hear about my last trip to Germany in April.
 
I have had the pleasure to visit many areas of Germany on my trips, but I am continuously drawn back to to the Odenwald region especially to the small villages of Kreidach and Wald Michelbach.
 

See photos in the Gallery
 
Both are close enough to large cities yet far enough away to be very very rural. I am fortunate enough to have some very wonderful friends who live there - the Arnold family - and Richard Arnold (The Nicest Man in Kreidach) and his friend Josef have been kind enough to take me sightseeing on each of my trips.
 
I have enjoyed the history of Spiers and Rothenberg, the castles throughout all the regions; and the wonderful and kind hospitality of the German people.
 
Originally I was brought to Germany to visit a very famous and wonderful photographer, Petra Arnold, whom I met while she was on assignment in San Francisco.
 
We became very good friends and then after meeting her father, mother, and brother I now have a wonderful family of friends in Kreidach.
 
The villages of Germany are so beautiful, green and open with fantastic bakeries and excellent meats and sausages for sale. It is a contrasting countryside of small villages, farm houses and cows, and little shopping areas.
 
All of this is interspersed with Castles and History as if the past was still alive in certain spots. To walk castle walls and battlements - to see, feel and touch antiquities centuries old - and to sense what it must have been like during those early times is a wonderous feeling.
 
Entering a palace once used by Napoleon with all its gold gilted decorations, painted walls, and exotic furniture (like Napoleon's toilet made to look like a dresser) gives you the sense of how big a class difference there must have been back in those days.
 
Contrast that with the bustling large cities of Frankfurt, Munchen, Hamburg, Manheim, etc. and sometimes you just feel like you are in a time warp.
 
On this last trip I had the opportunity to take many long walks with Richard Arnold and his friends where I had the opportunity to find out about life in Germany and of course the food in Germany - although Richard's wife did much to enchant me with Germany's wonderful cuisine.
 
Petra Arnold, my photographer friend, also has the knack of cooking great healthy meals. She is such a treat to be around, and it is very hard to slow her down.
 
As for her photography, please review her website which I have on our website links and I am sure you will find her work exciting.
 
It also amazes me how the 3 lovely women I now know in Kreidach are having such a hard time finding good men.
 
They are 3 very beautiful women and I have included a photo of them in my Germany Gallery.
 
The Frankfurt airport is one of the best airports I have used in my travels. Security is always high and has been for years (wake up America), and the delays are very short.
 
What can I say except that get out of the cities and into the countryside of Germany.
 
Visit the walled city of Rothenberg - the museum and cathedral in Spier - the cathedral and castle in Worms - the palace in Bruchsal - and the renowned "palace of palaces" in Wurzburg ... just to name a few places.
 
Be sure when you visit Rothenberg that you go to the Christmas Store and visit the Torture Museum [where I was amused to see that at some point during the history of torture someone finally realized that people would confess to anything just to stop the torture (go figure - right!]
 
Driving in Germany on the autobahn can be unnerving even for a good driver from the United States.
 
Stay to the right or you will find a car on your bumper that wasn't even in your rear view mirror when you looked just 2 seconds ago.
 
Although there are many sections of the autobahn with no speed limits there are also many sections with speed limits - obey them.
 
Driving in Germany for a newcomer can be confusing and it is easy to get lost, and I would suggest trying to get a car with a GPS system in it the first few times.
 
Eating in Germany is usually not a problem as most restaurants have menus in a few languages including English - and many Germans speak some English.
 
Visit Germany and get out into the countryside.
 
Peter A Distefano
Editor In Chief
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